Hi Jon,
You're certainly not crazy. This stuff really happens.
I've noticed that shanks can move after a careful setup also. I've
suspected for a while that it may be caused by the settling out of
internal growth stresses, which occur over the first year or two,
causing the burning angle to change.
Always with new pianos, there is a tendency for more movement in the
first year. The full regulation at the first year usually involves
quite a deal of hammer alignment. The reg' at year two, considerably
less. Thereafter, annual reg's will require burning angle adjustment
of only a couple of hammers.
I think two factors are a play here.
Firstly, the above mentioned stress relieving as the shank ages, and
secondly the operation of hanging the hammers, and in particular the
casting to adjust the burning angle.
It is just about impossible to hang a set of hammers which require no
post-casting to adjust the burning angle. I believe it is important
to try and hang the hammers such that there is a minimum of casting
required to set the burning angle afterwards. The important and
mostly overlooked first step, is to get the shank travel as good as
possible before the hammers are hung. This will allow us to hang the
hammers in such a manner as to reduce post-casting requirements
dramatically. Furthermore, when gluing the hammers, I don't try to
glue the hammers so that they look nice and parallel initially. I set
each hammer initially vertically, then check the burning angle by
moving the shank upwards and visually checking the burning angle
while the glue is wet. If necessary I'll adjust the angle of the head
to eliminate a burning angle problem. This is important. The
requirement to angle the hammer indicates that there is travel error
at the flange which wasn't eliminated before the hammers were hung.
If the hammer angle, for each, is adjusted while the glue is wet to
eliminate the burning angle, the final hammer alignment can be
achieved after the set is hung by packing the offending hammer
flanges to correct the travel problem. This approach greatly reduces
the need for casting the shanks all over the shop after the hanging
is done, and will significantly reduce those problematical alignment
stability problems that you have mentioned. The casting operation
itself requires bending the shank to somewhere that it wasn't sitting
at previously, when in a state of zero external stress. There is
always a slight tendency for heat-bent wood to spring back some, over
time. Therefore, less casting results in greater long term stability.
I have also found that when casting is required, a more stable result
is achieved if the shank is cast a little too much, then cast back a
little to where we want it.
A well hung set of hammers can make the job of the touch and tone
regulator so much easier. Getting on top of the skills required to
hang a set of hammers is very satisfying. But the learning seems to
continue on. That's another of life's little pleasures.
Ron O.
>Is it just me or am I crazy but I've noticed a misalignment
>of hammers after a year or two. By this I mean that the
>hammer has leaned towards the treble such that it requires
>re-setting. Angled too much for burn-in.
>
>Could it be that the shanks develop a twist, warping
>in a clockwise rotation as viewed from the front?
>Gravitation whiplash from the rotation of the earth?
>
>The travel is not the culprit. When installed, they were dead on.
>I've noticed this developing more so on Renner shanks than Abel.
>It's disconcerting to find your laborious efforts gone astray.
>
>They're not bored off center. I can't recall ever finding
>ones that leaned counter-clockwise. Oddly enough,
>the bass doesn't seem to exhibit this phenomenon.
>
>A newish M needs most of the top two treble sections reset.
>Yesterday I reset at least a dozen on an L which had new h/s/f
>three years ago.
>
>One could past it off as a poorly hung set
>but I know that was not the case.
>--
>
>Regards,
>
>Jon Page
--
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
Grand Piano Manufacturers
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Web http://overspianos.com.au
mailto:ron at overspianos.com.au
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