[CAUT] Bass bridge removal

[William Schneider]

Bob,

You won't have to remove the bridge from the board if you do the following:
Drill a few 1/8" holes up from the crack through the bridge or apron
(carefully select your spots), then tape under the holes and split. Use a
thin slow setting epoxy (like West System with the slowest hardener) and
keep filling the holes until the epoxy level stops going down. This takes a
while (an hour or two). The epoxy will flow by capillary action into the
split and displace the air before setting. A raw umber epoxy coloring agent
can improve the appearance of the job. You may have to top off the holes a
day later to bring the epoxy level (which will have gone down slightly
overnight) flush with the surface. Hope this helps.

Bill Schneider

-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Bob
Hull
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:47 AM
To: College and University Technicians
Subject: [CAUT] Bass bridge removal

Hi List,

On a small grand we're rebuilding there is a crack
that runs along close to the side (the rim side) of
the bass bridge and actually under the length of the
bridge.  SB replacement is not in the picture but
epoxy in the cracks will be used.  We've dried the
board down.  

Do we need to pull the bridge in order to secure that
crack that is underneath the bridge?  If so, what
methods do you recommend?  There are four screws
underneath, and I know some form of moisture and heat
will soften the glue joint, but I would like some
specific recommendations on this.  

The narrowly designed bridge has a small "apron"
offsetting it for longer speaking lengths and or
giving it a connection to a more flexible part of the
SB.  

Thanks.

Bob Hull  

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