[CAUT] gorilla glue

[Otto Keyes]

Had a somewhat ornate Chickering PSO grand in the theatre lobby that
folks were in the habit of moving at every whim -- on carpet.  You can
guess what happened -- knocked a leg off & crushed the lyre.  Not easily
replaceable parts -- thin, turned spindles.  

Theatre shop glued it back together with gorilla (polyurethane) glue, &
it held until the next season when they started shoving it around again,
knocked off the leg again, & really crushed it that time.  I stuck it
back together with poly glue, then drilled out the lyre base & up into
the spindles for extra strength.  We then nailed the piano to the floor
with dire warnings against anybody moving it.  

Don't think they've knocked off another leg since, but the lyre solid &
worked well, even without the dowels.  I don't think you could say that
for almost any other kind of glue.  Works pretty well for trashed
benches too, but clamping is a must, as the foaming action pushes the
pieces apart.

Gorrilla is just the brand name to up the price.  Lots of generics out
there in poly glue that work just as well.  Elmer's is what I normally
use.  Moisture is the catalyst, so keeping it in a dry environment is
key to shelf-life.  It is just a variation on the poly foam used to
insulate cracks, etc. ("Great Stuff" brand, etc.)  Sticks most anything,
but don't try to wipe it off while wet or it will just smear all over. 
Just let it set up a bit until it can be scraped off in curls, or let it
harden & pop the foam bits off.

Otto

 
----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle Stranges <stranges at oswego.edu>
Date: Thursday, November 9, 2006 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [CAUT] gorilla glue
To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>

> Reading all of these posts....and now this about having to grow new 
> 
> skin to cover the stain it'll make???  * what is the point of this  
> stuff?*
> Should we even have it in the shop?
> I vote no.
> 
> (I *do* have a very small bottle at home but I have not yet used 
> it.  
> Don't know if I will..)
> 
> JMHO...
> On Nov 9, 2006, at 1:40 PM, Richard Murphy wrote:
> 
> > HI Don,
> >     Be careful not to get any on your skin because it will stain  
> > your fingers brown and it doesn’t wash off, you have to wait 
> until  
> > your fingers grow new skin (about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks).  You put the 
> 
> > glue on one surface and wet the other with water, then fit the  
> > parts together and clamp them strongly because the glue foams up  
> > and will push the two pieces apart.  You will have to clean up 
> the  
> > foam from the outside afterwards.  Definitely not the glue to use 
> 
> > on parts that need replacing.
> > Richard
> >
> >
> > On 11/9/06 10:31 AM, "Wigent, Donald E" <WIGENTD at ecu.edu> wrote:
> >
> >> Say gang: tell me about this glue, Can I handle it or is it like 
> 
> >> CA and would it be good for cracked bridges. What is it good 
> for?  
> >> Maybe broken leggs or ripped out lid hinges?
> >> Don Wigent
> >> E C U
> >>
> >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> Behalf  
> >> Of Jim Busby
> >> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 1:31 PM
> >> To: College and University Technicians
> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] gorilla glue
> >>
> >> Thanks Dale. Of course, I was hoping you’d have some magic 
> solvent  
> >> or voodoo for me. What an awful glue…
> >>
> >> Jim Busby BYU
> >>
> >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> Behalf  
> >> Of Ward & Probst, Inc
> >> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 10:15 AM
> >> To: 'College and University Technicians'
> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] gorilla glue
> >>
> >>
> >> Jim,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I think you'll have to cut the hammers off to save the shanks. 
> I'd  
> >> use a band saw to remove as much as possible. then whittle off 
> the  
> >> rest. I am pretty sure that poly glue is not susceptible to  
> >> solvents after it sets. All that said, you'd have enough time in 
> 
> >> the job to have to weigh it against the cost of new parts,  
> >> particularly if the original parts need repining, etc. I'd guess 
> 
> >> it'd would take two to three hours to clean up the old shanks.  
> >> Unless they are unusual or costly shanks, that would be at least 
> 
> >> half the way to new parts.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Good luck,
> >>
> >> Dale
> >>
> >> Dale E. Probst, RPT
> >>
> >> Ward & Probst, Inc.
> >>
> >> Wichita Falls, TX
> >>
> >> mailto:dale at wardprobst.com
> >>
> >> www.wardprobst.com <http://www.wardprobst.com/>
> >>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On  
> >>> Behalf Of Jim Busby
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 10:36 AM
> >>> To: College and University Technicians
> >>> Subject: [CAUT] gorilla glue
> >>> List,
> >>>
> >>> All the talk of glue brings me to this problem/question. 
> Someone  
> >>> used gorilla glue to hang some hammers that I want to remove 
> and  
> >>> I can’t find ANYTHING that will work. I know I could simply buy 
> 
> >>> new shanks and flanges, but does anyone know of anything that’s 
> 
> >>> works on this stuff??
> >>>
> >>> Thanks.
> >>>
> >>> Jim Busby BYU
> >>
> >
> 
>