Hi Chris and Andrew
Ok... now these two posts put the whole thing in a little different
light for me... and I can relate to these posts really well.
Essentially... one is pointing out that whilst one can in most, even
extreme cases <<regulate ones way out>> of the problem, (at least as far
as the lock up issue is concerned) one in these same extreme cases
causes in the process other issues that are perhaps just as if not
nearly unacceptable.... i.e. extremes of key dip, hammer blow... etc.
In addition the point Andrew makes about drop screws simply not being
able to high enough to do their job drove the point home for me. I have
usually solved this kind of thing by thining the drop screw cushion on
the whippen rep lever.... but I will look closer at this buisness of
whippen center height visa vi hammer center hight much closer in the
coming months.
Thanks one and all for the enlightening perspectives. Please continue
throwing out your thoughts on this issue. I am all ears at this point.
Cheers
RicB
While I do agree with most of the remedies recently presented for
CAF there is the possiblility of reducing hammer blow too much and
reducing power by trying to "regulate it out." Sometimes, either
because upon investigation you find that the centerpin height
relationships to the string height have been tampered with, or
possibly set incorrectly originally(?!) you may want to raise or
lower the back mounting block (usually raise). If you do this you
can reduce or eliminate the tendency to lock up on fast shallow
repetition but you should rotate the entire stack around the hammer
center pin by lowering (in most cases) or raising the front mounting
block. This is the usual orientation for the stack in Steinways,
higher in back. If you just raise or lower the rear block thereby
raising the wippen (repetition support flange,ala Steinway) center
you will throw the hammer center forward or backward causing among
other issues centering problems. Depending on the degree to which
one does this you may have to plug and redrill the screw holes in
the mounting blocks although usually there is enough "play" in the
cleat holes. This is the indicated "fix" in MM's fore finishing
notes and Bob Marinelli and I have done this many times. It is
important to note that pinning the balancier up is also very
important as others have noted and I wouldn't want to move the stack
around without having good friciton there first. But there can be
other reasons to move the stack in this way not least of which is
that someone else has tampered with the arrangement or that is was
set incorrectly originally (?!) as I have said.
I would like to know what procedure you use Ed F. for replacing 88
cushions because installing 4 shims and making a few swipes with a
plane on the mounting blocks seems like alot less work to me. But
then I 've been so wrong for so long it sometimes seems like right
to me.
Chris Solliday
Ric,
When Steinway New York builds their grands with the string-plane well
above spec. and does nothing to accommodate that with the action this
can be a very real problem. This is a problem that is plaguing
technicians in some very big school systems.
A D at one of the schools I service was over-striking by about 3/16"
when brand new. Some hammer shaping later and it is probably
closer to 1/4". If the springs were a little weaker I'd be dealing
with occasional catastrophic failure. As it is, the shanks are well
above the cushions.
On another note the Steinway dealership has refused to look at the
piano so far and it is still under the short warranty. Their dealer
tech broke a bunch of the drop screws trying to back them out further
then they could so they were not unaware that a problem
existed. People in the UC system are encouraging the school to seek
legal remedies as the camel's nose for UC to get their same Steinway
problem addressed. We may yet see a civil suit filed with the UC
system offering amicus curiae briefs. Wait till that story hits the
front page of Music Trades!
I obtained felt to bolster the whip cushions when the action starts
capsizing but I've kept the springs strong and the key-pins
polished. The drop screws won't back out far enough to let the
hammers rest anywhere close to the strings at drop so I don't have to
worry about bubbling. I hesitate to patch on more felt because this
is a warranty issue Steinway should fix and I don't want to be in the
middle "mucking it up." When I called New York about it they sent
action shims but no warranty service authorization. I told the
school they could pay me to do it or put the screws on
Steinway. They said Steinway WILL take the piano back and rebuild or
replace it.
And Andrew writes:
I've had to do it on another piano with the red felt wrapped
over. Kind of ugly but that piano needs everything done to it and
they asked me for the cheapest, quickest fix and they got it and
like it fine.
Sometimes reality just doesn't cut any slack for you,
Andrew Anderson
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