Just a quick note on this. A great way of finding just how much to move
things forward and back regardless what you are moving is to mark the
existing position of the front of the key frame, ascertain optimal SP by
moving the frame appropriately, and measuring the difference between
your original mark and your new position. You have then exactly how much
you need to move stack or hammers or whatever your choice is.
Course in Jons example below the dags are in the way, but more often
then not this works just dandy.
Cheers
RicB
How about this one:
Lots of room between front of keys and keyslip. New hammers on new
shanks
(17 mm knuckle radius), standard shank length, top treble tone dead.
Keyframe
backed into dags, can't slide back to ascertain Strike Point. Lift
treble frame
registering pin with screw driver to tilt the hammer back: improves
tone.
Ok, the Strike Point (SP) is too far forwards.
Can't slide the frame back unless I remove material from the back
edge of the frame
but the sharps are already precariously close to the fall board.
Hmmmm...
lots of room at the fro=nt of the keys...
So, pull the hammers and set further out on the shanks? Install new
h/s/f ?
Look at the stack. The capstans are center in the treble and muchly
rear
of center of the cushions in the bass. What's that doing for the ratio?
Solution, move the stack back such that the capstan is situated at
the same position
on the cushion bass -to-treble, move keyframe forwards a sufficient
amount to tweak
treble SP. The stack moves back a little in the treble and a lot in
the bass.
Hammers are no longer raked over missing the centers of the ends of
the wippens.
Jacks are not buried into the rep stop felts. (also had shim the
whole stack towards the bass the thickness of veneer).
BTW, this is a Hamburg B.
Assume nothing. I don't care how many RPT's it previously went through.
--
Regards,
Jon Page
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