[CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material

[Chris Solliday]

I use no adhesive but rely on the cumulative screws. If I can get the braid
through the space between the rail and bracket that helps hold it in place,
but that isn't always possible sometimes you just have to cut it into
sections. I just watch the overlap on front and back as I install the shank
flange assembly. To apply the beeswax I heat one end of stick with a flame
or hot air gun and lay out the whole braid that i intend to use on my bench
and rub it on one side. Sometimes I have to reheat the stick as I go along.
Then I let it sit overnight and then install. This allows me to move the
flanges around for alignment purposes without having to loosen the screws
which is one of the advantages of the brass rail. I've tried waxing both
sides but like the topside  better overall. It never occurred to me to apply
glue as I wanted to be able to make the adjustments which is part of the
Steinway concept. These days they are using nameboard style felt and the
beesway thing works on it too. And the way the old stuff comes off leads me
to believe they never used glue either with the braid. The nameboard felt
seems to be self adhesive and very much more messy to remove and replace
than the braid. It's probably easier to keep the felt straight with alittle
glue but I like the old way better. I did have to learn to work with this
braid as it is a little tricky to keep it straight and not let it bunch up
but then that's half the fun. I have tried it without wax and it is much
more difficult and doesn't hold position as well while installilng and later
in adjustment.
The one deviation from factory that I do now is add a washer on the top of
the flange. It helps keep the flange level and particularly keeps the front
from moving up or down which can alter the centerpin height. I think that it
is important to maintain that measurement for many obvious reasons. Of
course tilting side to side is no good either so all in all the washer is a
big improvment. Does it affect tone? I don't notice any difference. I
suppose if the rail and the flange profile were more perfect I wouldn't need
the washer but then reality rules here in Easton PA.
btw I use sandpaper and glue on most other style rails.
Chris Solliday
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan McCoy" <amccoy at mail.ewu.edu>
To: <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material


> A thin film of PVC-E.
>
> Alan
>
>
> > From: Paul T Williams <pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu>
> > Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>"
<caut at ptg.org>
> > Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 07:38:33 -0500
> > To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org>
> > Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > How do you adhere the material to the rail?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > A440A at aol.com
> > Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
> > 08/18/2008 06:42 PM
> > Please respond to
> > College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
> >
> >
> > To
> > caut at ptg.org
> > cc
> >
> > Subject
> > Re: [CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Stringing braid is very close to the original Steinway rail covers of
> > prewar
> > vintage.
> >
> > Ed Foote RPT
> > http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
> > www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
> >  <BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>It's only a deal if it's where you want
to
> > go.
> > Find your travel deal here.<BR>
> >
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)</HTML>
> >
>
>