[CAUT] hammer line

Jon Page jonpage at comcast.net
Sat Feb 16 08:22:23 MST 2008


>The sorting by knuckle height, do you think a player feels any uneveness
>if this is not done, or is this mainly the elegance of straightlines?


I've measured as much as 1 mm in height difference within a set. Some sets
measure~~ .620", some .640". In a .640 set, some might be .610, 620, 650, 660.
My spring-loaded thickness gage is in inches.

I'll measure a few to find and average and start from there. Let's 
say .640" ave.

That's my medium and in that pile, I'll place the range of .638" to .642".

The low's will be ~.635"; hi's ~.645". Any shanks outside of those 
are set aside.

I used to buy several sets in order to get a complete set within a 
.005 range but
sets were so inconsistent, I'd have to order too many sets to make it 
practical.
I mentioned this to Lloyd many years ago and he said they were working on that,
they seem better. I've gone so far as to remove a knuckle, sand the end of the
core and press it back in with a caul (I posted this years ago w/ photo).

On spare shanks I note: knuckle to c/p radius, knuckle height and shank weight.
So if I need to fill in a set, they're labeled.  I also rotate the stock,
utilizing the appropriate stored shanks first.

By endeavoring to keep the tolerance tight, aftertouch is more consistent.
Just another variable eliminated or reduced. Not having an overly wavy
Let Off button line is a bonus.

Varying heights on knuckles will have the wippens at different rest heights.
Anything we can do to standardize parts and motion is a plus.

Regards,

Jon Page
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