[CAUT] Full Cover w/ DC

[Fred Sturm]

	Yes, I had thought of using that white foam board that architecture  
students use for making models. But how do I make it look like it  
"fits the decor?" It might work on the console, slid under the bottom  
board (I'm still thinking a good bit of heat might be introduced  
through the casters). With the grands, next to the baseboard heaters,  
I need to devise baffles that don't look like a piece of cardboard  
leaning against the wall. I was thinking the "space blanket" (camping  
supplies) might disguise with fabric and drape somehow. Just haven't  
really got down to more than idle thoughts. I should do that <G>.
	At any rate, the point of my posts is to note the difference between  
exposure to dry air and direct exposure to heat. I wouldn't have  
thought those baseboard heaters or radiant floor heat would be such an  
issue. I thought they might be better than forced air because that  
sort of heating system doesn't remove as much moisture from the air as  
forced air, so the ambient RH stays closer to constant. Experience  
tells me they can be quite a problem, possibly far worse than a forced  
air system that plays havoc with RH from season to season.
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm at unm.edu



On Mar 26, 2008, at 6:24 PM, Ed Sutton wrote:

> Fred-
> A white surface will reflect 90% of the radiant heat that a black  
> surface will absorb. You might try just putting white cardboard or  
> paper on the back or bottom of the piano, or between the heat source  
> and the piano.
> PetSmart sells little liquid crystal thermometers for fish aquaria  
> ("Top Fin" for $1.79) They stick to a surface and measure from 64 to  
> 86 degrees F. With a few of these you could track heat flow pretty  
> easily.
> Ed Sutton