Hi Dale, I'm a little like Guy, though I used oil base enamel to paint the top of my dark blue car white. And then painted the rest of it to match. I'm not to bad with a brush, from my days as a house painter <G>. The white top did make a pretty big difference. I wonder if you _could_ take something like Solarguard and manage to attach it to the ceiling of a car. Worth a try, when the mercury is hitting 100 out here in "Fort Stinking Desert." Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu On Mar 28, 2008, at 7:17 PM, Ward & Probst, Inc wrote: > Hi Fred, > > The late Guy Nichols would suggest painting the top of your car with > white > latex, that's what he used to do in Las Cruces. > > I used the type with foil on both sides, it goes under the roof on the > inside, seams are covered with aluminum tape. I put it on before > roofing and > siding so yours may be more difficult. Reflective side is marked on > the one > I used. Contact a local metal builder or Metal Mart for a scrap for > the > piano bottom. > > Good luck, > DP > > -----Original Message----- > From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf > Of Fred > Sturm > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 9:38 AM > To: College and University Technicians > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [CAUT] [SPAM] Re: Full Cover w/ DC > > > Hi Dale, > THink I can glue some to the top of my car to help in the summer? > <G> > Which one did you use, the Low E? > A whole roll would cover the bottoms of a whole lot of pianos. But I > > might think about my corrugated roof shop building. I'm not clear how > it is installed on a metal building. Does it go inside, reflective > surface facing out? > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > fssturm at unm.edu > > > > On Mar 27, 2008, at 8:27 AM, Ward & Probst, Inc wrote: > >> Fred, >> >> You might try a piece of this http://www.metalmarts.com/ >> insulation.php >> stapled to the bottom board. I insulated our moving trailer and a >> metal shop >> building with the silver/silver combination and it works well at >> reflecting >> radiant heat. >> >> DP >> Dale E. Probst, RPT >> Ward & Probst, Inc. >> Wichita Falls, TX >> mailto:dale at wardprobst.com >> www.wardprobst.com >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf >> Of Fred >> Sturm >> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:00 PM >> To: College and University Technicians >> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [CAUT] Full Cover w/ DC >> >> >> A couple thoughts beyond what I posted earlier. Heat is conveyed >> (the >> physicist types tell us) in three ways: radiant, conduction (might be >> the wrong term) and convection. With forced air heat, we are mostly >> dealing with convection, and the variant is whether and how much the >> air is moving. This affects how much the object (piano) is heated or >> cooled by the air that is a different temperature. And mostly we >> don't >> worry too much about it, and worry more about how dry the air is, and >> the movement of water to and from the wood of the piano. >> But if there is a heat source like a radiant heated floor, or an old >> >> fashioned radiator, or baseboard heat (and any number of other >> possibilities), there is the possibility that the "body and material >> of the piano" become heated more than the ambient air. I think this >> happens with my example of the console on a brick, radiant heated >> floor. I think it also happens with a couple of grands I service that >> are next to baseboard heat (the type that has hot water flowing >> through long, low profile radiators). I have one with a full system >> and undercover, another with a double tank. Both have horrible tuning >> instability. It is better than it was without the systems, but as bad >> as what I see in "normal" houses without a system. (And, yes, I have >> discussed placement of the pianos with the customers, and, frankly, >> there is just no good option). >> I think that this proximity to heat source causes the whole >> structure >> of the piano to become a fair amount hotter than the air, and so the >> moisture just leaves it much faster than the system can replenish: >> there is an active "moisture subtraction" system in effect, with more >> power than the active moisture addition system. I'm thinking I need >> to >> come up with some kind of baffle/insulator system for these pianos. >> Problem is, it has to look acceptable (I'm real good at the kind of >> thing that doesn't have to look so good <G>). I'm thinking in terms >> of >> "space blanket" type design, with metal foil and insulating layers >> sandwiched together. But so far it is just idle thinking while tuning >> those pianos. >> Regards, >> Fred Sturm >> University of New Mexico >> fssturm at unm.edu >> >> >> >> On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:07 AM, Fred Sturm wrote: >> >>> I think radiant heating is a real challenge. I have a console on a >>> brick, radiant heated floor, that has crazy swings in spite of well- >>> serviced dampchaser system and back cover. (Over time, I up-graded >>> to DRY humidistat, then back cover. Each step helped some, but not >>> as much as expected. Still unacceptable). >>> I think the addition of heat by conduction, due to the piano being >>> in contact with the hot floor, is a big part of this. I have been >>> puzzling about how to deal with it. My best guess so far is some >>> kind of insulation - don't know how much good caster cups might do, >>> whether to do some kind of blanket under the bottom board. >>> Definitely an issue that needs to be examined and solutions >>> proposed and experimented with. I wonder whether the contact of the >>> grand's legs with the floor isn't part of the problem, in addition >>> to what is radiated up from the floor. Rubber casters might help - >>> probably not, but perhaps worth a try as part of a solution. I'm >>> thinking about the conduction part of the equation, which might or >>> might not be significant in this case. >>> Regards, >>> Fred Sturm >>> University of New Mexico >>> fssturm at unm.edu >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 7:46 AM, Joel A. Jones wrote: >>> >>>> Jon, >>>> >>>> I have a similar situation in that the heat is radiant in the >>>> floor. >>>> The church added a long piece which wraps under the piano, >>>> thus keeping the temp and humidity even inside the piano. >>>> >>>> With your floor length cover I would explore adding a few straps >>>> with velcro to pull the extra length of cover underneath the >>>> piano. My guess is that this would even out the temp and >>>> humidity and eliminate the sauna effect you are experiencing >>>> now. >>>> >>>> Let us know how you handle this situation. I am very >>>> interested on what happens. >>>> >>>> Joe >>>> Joel Jones, RPT >>>> Madison, WIl >>>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 7:51 AM, Jon Page wrote: >>>> >>>>> I recently took over the tuning for a church with a 7' Imp. >>>>> Bosendorfer. >>>>> >>>>> On my first visit the music director asked me to remove the tank. >>>>> I lifted a section of the full-length cover and got under the >>>>> piano; >>>>> it was quite warm and humid, too much. >>>>> >>>>> This is an old church with wooden floors with the parish hall >>>>> below. >>>>> The heat radiated up through the floor and was trapped within the >>>>> cover causing the piano to become even warmer. With the humidifier >>>>> running it was like a sauna or greenhouse (to a degree). >>>>> >>>>> Of course, as I was tuning, the piano drifted since it is now >>>>> being >>>>> acclimated to the room. That was fun. >>>>> >>>>> I recommended that they ditch the full length cover and supplement >>>>> the rods with a string cover. This way the string cover can remain >>>>> on >>>>> during services and removed for performances if needed. I don't >>>>> think >>>>> they need the H20 since there's no excessive heat or cold in the >>>>> winter >>>>> and no one willing to monitor it. >>>>> >>>>> I suggested they place a hygrometer inside to monitor the piano >>>>> when >>>>> first opened and after service and to ascertain the effect of the >>>>> full cover >>>>> and whether they really needed the H20 in the winter. >>>>> They have yet to do that. >>>>> >>>>> The music committee asked the dealer about the full cover and DC >>>>> and the dealer naturally stuck by their sale. I was asked by the >>>>> music >>>>> director to give my suggestion at a committee meeting next week. >>>>> >>>>> So my question is, with the heat radiating upwards from the hall >>>>> below >>>>> is a full cover ideal. I believe a string cover and heat rods are >>>>> sufficient. >>>>> I can see where a full-length cover in an auditorium can be useful >>>>> but in this case I think it is detrimental. >>>>> >>>>> They don't really need the bulky, protective cover because there >>>>> is no traffic around the piano. A lighter cover would do if >>>>> desired. >>>>> -- >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Jon Page >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC