Powdered Tef can be applied to both front and balance bushings fast, with a 2" China bristle brush...and at the same time, why not treat the guide rail bushings, keyend damper lift felt, , shift lever, glide bolts, keybed/frame contact sufraces...(front and back keybed frame), shift spring, shift lever, frame hold/dag surfaces, jack tenders, knuckles, drop screws, cheek block / frame guides...even the Capstan contact felt can be accessed... Dan Dallas. TX On Oct 31, 2008, at 9:59 AM, Jim Busby wrote: > Ric, > > Back to a comment I made weeks ago. Prolube has no solvent like CLP > does. I've found that CLP does react to white glues like wood > molding glue. We used to use CLP on bushings, but found that if we > didn't allow the glue to dry completely (24 hours or so) sometimes > the bushings came out! I figured it must be the solvent (the C in > the CLP) so we now use Prolube only (Just the PL w/o the C). The > keys did get sticky with the CLP but not with the Prolube, in our > experience here. Many people just use "Protek" and don't know the > difference between the two and I think it is bigger than we > thought. But... I agree with you that the powdered Teflon works > better anyway. No one has mentioned Goose Juice, and I think it is > as good or better than Prolube. I don't know if it has the > "solvent" in it or not. > > Regards, > Jim > > -----Original Message----- > From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf > Of Richard Brekne > Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 2:13 AM > To: caut at ptg.org > Subject: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings > > Lots of methods here... thats to be sure. Chris mentioned > something in > Esberg about a list compiled by one of our members that deals with > different kinds of lubricants... which ones do and dont go well > together. The S&S bushing thing was the subject matter. > > For myself, I like to stick first and formost to cleaned and polished > pins and a bit of telfon powder brushed into the bushings. This > seems to > work for just about any kind of bushing around and stays slick as > grease > going through a goose for several years. I use something akin to a > pipe > cleaner to apply. I used to use liquid lubricants like prolube but > found a couple pianos that started getting sticky after a while. Seems > to be something that reacts to some bushing material. One never > really > knows whats been done before so teflon in powder form seems the > best bet > to me. Doesn't really have a chance to react with anything else. > > Cheers > RicB > > >
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