On one occasion, it was loose drop screws that clicked which a small drop of thin CA sized the hole. When checking for loose hammer heads, grip the head fore and aft between your thumb and index fingers and give them a front-to-back wiggle. If it is loose, you can feel a knock. A glue sizing can be made, 50/50 water/glue and dabbed on the joint and allow to wick in. When removing the head altogether, take the shank off the rail as others suggested and pop off the head. I use a reamer on the hole and scrap off the glue bead on the front. I don't clean the shank because I want the collar there to align the head with the others, it saves time. Removing the glue from the front molding allows for vertical alignment, it won't key into its old position. This is also what I do for hammers which are too far leaning to burn-in. -- Regards, Jon Page
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