[CAUT] CAF

Fred Sturm fssturm at unm.edu
Sat Aug 15 10:40:08 MDT 2009


On Aug 15, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Jeff Tanner wrote:

> Fred,
> Yes, practice at regulating spring tension does help. But my  
> experience is that when balancier and hammershank pinning is too  
> loose, the spring tension regulation has to be so light that it  
> isn't reliable.  The spring has to regulated so weak that the  
> slightest changes in humidity have a great effect on function. To  
> regulate the spring tension so that it doesn't throw the hammer past  
> the drop point against the string, creating the bobbling hammers at  
> mp playing, you wind up with a spring not strong enough for the  
> wippen to reset properly on a firm blow.  More firm pinning prevents  
> "bounce", especially in the jack, but also in the hammer.  The  
> stronger spring tension allowed by firmer pinning "lasts longer".
>
> So, yes, I agree with Chris on this.  Yes, there are many causes,  
> but every occurrence I've ever run into has to do with pinning,  
> spring tension, or a combination of the two being out of tolerance  
> on either side.  But I've always been able to remedy CAF with other  
> means than changing the rest cushion height.


	There are a couple things here. First, there is the question of what  
we are calling "CAF." I am referring to a particular lock up of the  
action (of one note of the action), where the hammer ends up well  
below the hammerline, and it doesn't reset immediately. It sometimes  
resets within a second, but that is too slow. Sometimes it resets if  
you just lightly touch the key. Sometimes it stays locked until the  
key is depressed a couple times. It is, as I said before, a fairly  
rare symptom, which occurs with particular sorts of playing, but can  
be very, very aggravating to someone who plays that way, or plays  
particular passages. I, just like you, have had pianos with hammers  
high off cushions with zero complaints. And then, if somebody else  
plays the piano, the problem occurs. And, I repeat, and with emphasis,  
the only cure is a closer cushion. Talking about this precise problem,  
not about "action failure" in general.

	Now there are plenty of other causes for action failure, especially  
having to do with the jack getting back under the knuckle. It can be  
sluggishness of the jack center, rubbing of the jack in the window, a  
few things. There is one symptom that is more connected to rep  
pinning. When you check an action at rest by tripping jack tenders  
very lightly, during the final regulation of rep lever height  
(relative to jack top): ideally you should see the hammer fall very  
slightly (maybe 0.5 mm), and when you release the jack, it returns and  
the hammer rises again that 0.5 mm. Sometimes the hammer drops more  
and the jack doesn't return, and you screw the adjustment screw, and  
keep screwing it, and, well, it just won't be made to work. In that  
case, commonly too loose centers is the cause, maybe both rep lever  
and hammerflange. Usually you find zero friction. And usually  
repinning solves the problem.
	(The one case where I have found that it doesn't is with the old  
Baldwin wippens, which have the odd coil in the spring that goes  
directly between rep lever and jack. It seems that the action resets  
under actual playing conditions, but in checking by tripping jack  
tenders, it worries the heck out of me. They don't reset nearly  
reliably enough. Pinning tight and maxing spring strength doesn't do  
the job. Maybe I am missing something. Fortunately I only have one L  
like that, and it is in a classroom. I guess I have also had that  
experience with Schwander wipps. Mostly I work with butterfly springs,  
and I think I see why everyone uses them).
	So, yes, some degree of firmness of rep lever pinning is needed for  
the action to reset in many cases. For myself, I would say 2-4 grams.  
Others are talking 7-9 grams. I think that is excessive. And I'm not  
sure the heavier pinning makes the spring strength adjustment last  
longer. I'd say the opposite, that it is more likely to need to be  
adjusted sooner, that you will end up with bobbling and re-striking  
hammers sooner. If the spring is adjusted against less friction, its  
adjustment is closer to what it would be at zero friction, so it won't  
really change a whole lot as things loosen up with play (or dry).
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm at unm.edu





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