What I do to bend warp the key(just did a brand new Hardman Upright yesterday) is place the key on its side at the edge of my workbench with the direction I wish to bend it facing down. I then place a scrap of wood(bridge capping maple works well) under the key button being sure that it extends past the pin hole on either side. I then firmly clamp the key button area down to the bench. I then measure how far the distal end(new word for me) sits above the bench top(having already measured the distance I think I need to move it while at the piano). I then place a clamp lightly tensioned on that end of the key. Heat with heat gun for 5-10 mins adding tension to the clamp as you go. I feel that the clamp gives me more control over bending forces than trying to lean on it(although I do listen more the slightest ‘cracking sound’J). I generally have to go 2-3x the distance I am looking for since the key will tend to spring back when you release tension on the clamp. I like to leave the key in the clamp for an hour to cool while I do something else in the shop. I too would like to know if anyone has had success with adding water. Fred Brown RPT Atlanta, GA From: reggaepass at aol.com [mailto:reggaepass at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 3:47 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Key Spacing: The Distal End Alan Nope, haven't tried that. I see how that might work. Our paramount concern is to not break the key stick, so we have been doing everything possible to play it safe (like steaming both sides). Alan -----Original Message----- From: Mccoy, Alan <amccoy at ewu.edu> To: CAUTlist <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Thu, Aug 20, 2009 11:51 am Subject: Re: [CAUT] Key Spacing: The Distal End Alan, Have you tried putting the key in the vise horizontally and steaming only one side of the key (the “concave” side out to accept the steam)? You would then push the key toward the bench to straighten it. The idea being that the side getting the steam will expand more than the other side and would bend in the direction you want it to go. Just a thought. I haven’t tried it. Alan -- Alan McCoy, RPT Eastern Washington University amccoy at ewu.edu 509-359-4627 (message Pacific time) 509-999-9512 (cell Pacific time) _____ From: <reggaepass at aol.com> Reply-To: CAUTlist <caut at ptg.org> Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 09:37:18 -0700 To: <ilvey at sbcglobal.net>, CAUTlist <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Key Spacing: The=2 0Distal End Key in vise (key button in vise jaws), distal end up. We have been running two steams sources, one on either side of the key, up and down for one minute. Then we apply pressure by leaning on the key in the desired direction for another minute (no longer applying steam). This seems to do the trick in most cases. Just wondering what problems we may be creating in the process (so far, we had to ease a couple of key bushings and replace a few more), or if there is an easier way to do this. Alan -----Original Message----- From: David Ilvedson <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> To: caut at ptg.org Sent: Thu, Aug 20, 2009 9:20 am Subject: Re: [CAUT] Key Spacing: The Distal End Alan, How are you manipulating the key? In your hands, moving the key along the steam? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: reggaepass at aol.com To: caut at ptg.org Received: 8/20/2009 8:27:19 AM Subject: [CAUT] Key Spacing: The Distal End >When spacing (i. e., bending) the portion of the key between the balance pin and >the distal end (where the lifter felt is) is indicated, does anyone have a technique >that works particularly well for th em? C3 We are experimenting with heat alone (which >we have found to be extremely slow-going, so far) and with steam (more rapid >results, but harder to contain than heat without all that moisture in it). Â Thoughts? >Alan Eder -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090821/586d9969/attachment-0001.htm>
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