Fred et al,
Thanks for the input. I ended up rehanging the bass section with new shanks, which worked out well.
I think the original problem came about because the first trials I set for the bass section were not right. The second time I installed them in the piano, which of course helped.
The Abel hammers have a great sound, by the way. The customer was very pleased with the improvement.
Dan Rembold
Auburn University
--- On Mon, 7/20/09, Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> wrote:
> From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu>
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Vertical hammer installation
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Date: Monday, July 20, 2009, 12:11 PM
> Yes, and you have a longer glue
> joint (more solid, less likely to become loose). It's
> easy - use a brad point bit that chucks in a combination
> handle. With care, hand turn the bit until the brad tip just
> penetrates the top of the molding. That gives you consistent
> depth, and a nice glue relief hole as a bonus. The caveat is
> you need a firm and steady hand, so you don't let the
> bit wander around in the hole and make it less precise in
> angle. But I find I can do that holding the hammer in one
> hand, the bit/combo handle in the other, as long as I am
> focused and attentive.
> Regards,Fred
> SturmUniversity of New Mexicofssturm at unm.edu
>
>
> On Jul 17, 2009, at 12:37 PM, Mccoy, Alan
> wrote:
> Hi Dan,
>
> If it were me, I’d bore them deeper for alignment as well
> as glue relief.
>
> Alan
>
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