I'm assuming you're telling us that despite bushing
problems, the anodized aluminum pin performed well, yes?
Yes, the anodized aluminum pins seem to work noticeably better than conventional front pins. The bushing (Renner cloth) got tighter (hence, it went from having a slight but positive knock from side to side to not having it), probably due to an increase in relative humidity (which has greatly aided firefighters in combating the local 160,000+ acre "Station fire" that's been in the national news). The bushing was initially ironed with straight broaches from Pianotek.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Sutton <ed440 at mindspring.com>
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Thu, Sep 10, 2009 2:58 pm
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Fwd: WNG parts
Alan-
How did the bushing change, did it get tighter or
looser?
What caused it to change? Playing? Humidity? Was it
a gobbed up, worn mortise? What kind of cloth?
I'm assuming you're telling us that despite bushing
problems, the anodized aluminum pin performed well, yes?
Ed Sutton
----- Original Message -----
From:
reggaepass at aol.com
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:30
PM
Subject: [CAUT] Fwd: WNG parts
A follow-up to my previous post about WN&G front pins (see
below)...
The bad news is that the front rail bushing referenced has since changed
enough th
at there is no longer a "slight but positive knock" from side to side
:( However, the static touch weight measurement is now 48 grs. down, 24
grs. up for 12 grs. of friction, which is very impressive, under the
circumstances :) FYI.
Alan Eder
-----Original Message-----
From:
reggaepass at aol.com
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 10:58
am
Subject: Re: [CAUT] WNG parts
I wonder
if the key bushings fit can be a little closer adjusted with
these pins?? Tolerance?
I just installed a set on an S&S B
that had chronically nicked front rail pins. As an experiment, I
initially left a few bushings so that the keys were free, but there was no
detectible "clearance" from side to side--wildly hopeful that this could work,
reducing energy loss from key wiggle while arresting the rate of wear on the
bushing. Static touch weight measurement indicated that there was not as
much friction as one would expect from a conventional front rail pin with this
"zero tolerance" set-up, but to work optimally, it still needed a slight but
positive knock from side to side.
Alan Eder
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Solliday
<csolliday at rcn.com>
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 5:58
am
Subject: [CAUT] WNG parts
My big concern with these parts is the felt
bushings. The samples
I received had inconsistent pinning. I have not yet had
time to repin and check on the results but it seems to me that the success of
these parts is going to, in large part, come from their reliablility. Fit
seems to be very good. I wonder how you replace a bushing that comes
out. What glue to use?
So far every manufacutrer of parts has had
runs of difficult to service felt. Will this be any
different?
I'm in the middle of a M&H BB rebuild and
would like to try these parts, so any insight from those who have done this
would be most appreciative. I'm not too concerned about the tonal
characteristics of the shanks themselves as long as they are consistent and as
I read the specified tolerances they seem to be much more so than hornbeam. I
think using Ronsen Bacon or Abel Naturals will be my choice. A softer hammer
makes sense to me.
I am also encountering some reluctance on the
part =0 Aof a certain keyboard maker to use the keypins and
backchecks for a replacement keyboard.I'll do the backchecks myself
but it would be handy to have him install the pins with the new
keys. Anybody have any experience with replacing Aeolian vintage M&H
BB keyboards? I wonder if M&H does this? I wonder if the key
bushings fit can be a little closer adjusted with these pins??
Tolerance?
Well I only have questions20anybody got
answers?
thanks,
Chris
Solliday
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