On Sep 28, 2009, at 2:08 PM, G Cousins wrote: > List, > I have an issue with a Harpsichord soundboard.(20 yrs old, not a > kit) 4' rank bridge is rolling due to board warping and waving. > Strings are now buzing from contact with board. I'm thinking perhaps > riblets or something around that line. > This is likely off of typical CAUT concerns or threads so if anyone > wants to discuss some ideas on this topic contact me off list for > more details. > Thanks, > Gerry Cousins, RPT > West Chester University of PA > cousins_gerry at msn.com > gcousins at wcupa.edu > Typically the 8 foot bridge has gone down, and the hitchpin rail has gone up. The cure I have used, maybe 3 or 4 times (always successfully so far), is one I learned from Hubbard (though I modified their instructions quite a bit), called at the time a "happiness bar." It is one or two dowels (one in the middle, or perhaps two at 1/3 distances) inserted from beneath, with a fairly strong spring on top, a coil spring about the diameter of the dowel or a little less. Drill a hole in the top of the dowel and insert a smaller diameter dowel in the hole. The smaller dowel is about the inside diameter of the spring, and holds it in place. The spring will need to hit the soundboard directly under the 8 foot bridge. The bottom of the dowel rests on the bottom of the case. It's actually quite easy to do. Drill a hole (or two) in appropriate places through the bottom (use a square to measure the right distances in so that you will be under the bridge). The hole should be a bit larger than the dowel, and large enough to insert a finger or two comfortably. Measure the distance up to the bridge, cut the dowel to be somewhat shorter. Have maybe three strengths of spring available. Place the spring on the top of the dowel, held in place as described above, insert in the hole. The spring should contact the soundboard under the bridge, at which point you press upward with one finger and manipulate the bottom of the spring so it slides over and rests on the harpsichord bottom next to the hole. And maybe decide that a different spring strength or length is needed, so remove and adjust as needed. The hole needs to be large enough that a finger can get in and pull the dowel back over to the hole for removal. I attach some photos from I class I taught that should help. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090928/2f725326/attachment-0001.htm> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: -32b H bar hole close.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120121 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090928/2f725326/attachment-0003.jpg> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: -31 happiness materials.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 92860 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090928/2f725326/attachment-0004.jpg> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: -31a happiness bar.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 90271 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090928/2f725326/attachment-0005.jpg>
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