[CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues

[Paul T Williams]

These newer shanks are not supposed to be roughed up at all! That's what 
they say!  I'm still going to have to ream the hammer-bore holes as they 
are so snug that I can't even put them on.

Now, I've heard that one can "dry" hang them, then apply their special 
glue in place with a drop or two of non-viscous CA at the tail end to wick 
in. That doesn't make sense to me as then there would no glue inside 
between the shank and hammer.  I'm getting many different opinions both 
from y'all, Wally, and WNG.  \\\

I think a tutorial from WNG is in order directly so all of us with new 
shanks can deal with this. Then, we won't have to go through this again.

Was this worth it? I'm hoping so...

Paul




From:
Michael Magness <ifixpiano at gmail.com>
To:
caut at ptg.org
Date:
08/20/2010 11:46 AM
Subject:
Re: [CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues





On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Paul T Williams <
pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu> wrote:
Hi all, 

I have these new shanks from WNG and ordered a set of Wally's naturals 
which they bored at exactly what WNG suggested was 0.185" or (4.7mm). 
 shanks are 4.7mm and the same for the boring hole...so guess what- they 
won't go on the shank!. I talked to one of the folks at Brooks and he 
suggests reaming the hammer a bit to get some play between hammer and 
shank.  More widened toward the shank end of the hammer hole than the 
back.   these won't even slide on the shank, so I'll need to ream or 
re-bore.  I'm leaning toward reaming as John at Brooks suggested this to 
make the hole closer to to same at the back of the boring hole with room 
for the glue at the front of the hole. He's tried several attacks, and WNG 
keeps changing the deck. I'm now very nervous of where to go, but need 
y'all's input on what you're finding.  Now with the NEW SHANKS< NOT SCORED 
IN ANY WAY type.  just smooth to the end. 

What have you all found to be the best solution to this? I'm not going 
forward until I hear some of your stories. 

These are the newest shanks with no roughing needed at the tail end of the 
shank.   

It sounds like this is still in developement with us to determine the 
right procedures, and I'm a bit nervous with a $400+ set of hammers...even 
with free shanks.  I want to get it right the first time 

Thanks for more input. 
Paul 


The shanks are to be roughened in line with the shank rather than around 
DAMHIK
I am still re-gluing hammers from my first set that I roughened in a 
circular fashion as the loosen in a school piano.
 
I made the desicion on my 2nd set to not use the glue that came with the 
shanks, didn't care for it. I bored my hammers larger & used Franklins 
moulding & trim glue, worked great!
 
Mike
-- 
  
It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought 
without accepting it.
    
    Aristotle (384 BC - 322 BC)

Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
www.IFixPianos.com
email mike at ifixpianos.com

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