[CAUT] Steinway D Case Repair & Refinishing (Institutional)

Paul T Williams pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu
Thu May 13 09:19:00 MDT 2010


Thanks Kent.  Here's before and after shots!

Paul





From:
Kent Swafford <kswafford at gmail.com>
To:
caut at ptg.org
Date:
05/13/2010 10:11 AM
Subject:
Re: [CAUT] Steinway D Case Repair & Refinishing (Institutional)



Absolutely love it. I want one. (Really.)

Kent


On May 13, 2010, at 9:48 AM, Paul T Williams wrote:

I had some "fun" with a nasty looking old Steinway M in a practice room. 
The previous finish was a faux antiqued walnut that actually looked more 
like puke green. The fallboard was EXTREMELY gouged out.  I used some 
heavy duty 2-part wood filler from Menard's that worked very nicely and 
accepted the spraypaint very well.   

No wise cracks about the color now! :>)  Big Red flame suit on securely! 
The students love it! That's why I did it... 

Best, 
Paul 



From: 
johnparham at piano88.com 
To: 
caut at ptg.org 
Date: 
05/13/2010 09:13 AM 
Subject: 
Re: [CAUT] Steinway D Case Repair & Refinishing (Institutional)




Paul,

For what it's worth, I've used bondo on gouges with good success as
well... just don't put it on too thick because it will take too long to
dry.

Automotive spray paint, by the way, dries very quickly, which is a plus
when you are dealing with a circle of refinement in disguising obvious
flaws.  No matter the finish, it will usually look darker than the
original finish when applied, so if the stage lights hit the case just
right, the contrast in shading can be very obvious.  It is worth the
time to blend the finish using 1500-4000 grit sandpaper (another common
automotive supply).

-John Parham
Hickory, NC

> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Steinway D Case Repair & Refinishing
> (Institutional)
> From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu>
> Date: Thu, May 13, 2010 9:35 am
> To: College & University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
> 
> 
> On May 13, 2010, at 6:44 AM, Ed Sutton wrote:
> 
> > Paul-
> >
> > You can do a very effective stage repair of the side of the case, 
> > using auto body filler from the auto supply store.
> > Don't skimp. Go through the grades of filler putty. Use all the 
> > grades of abrasive with support pads to blend it in absolutely flat. 
> > Find black primer. Try different kinds of spray black until you find 
> > the best match. Mask off at the edges so the tone change occurs 
> > unseen on the corners of the rim, and fade and blend around the 
> > tail. Practice until you find the right touch for satinizing the 
> > finish.
> >
> > Consider sending the fall board to a professional refinisher. This 
> > is what the performer sees, and with some clever touch up around the 
> > front of the case, the performer will see "new piano."
> >
> > This could be a real winner in faculty relations, as people who know 
> > nothing about pianos will respond in amazement if you make the old 
> > clunker look new on stage.
> >
> > have fun!
> >
> > Ed Sutton
> 
> 
>                  Ed gives some excellent suggestions. I think you could 
do somewhat 
> the same with the fallboard gouges as he suggests for the gouge on the 
> side.
>                  I touch up our instruments fairly regularly in a very 
low tech 
> manner. I simply use an artist brush and some black automotive 
> lacquer, and apply it carefully to every place on the piano that is 
> "white wood." I won't call this a truly professional look, but it is 
> quite passable from the audience. Sometimes a second application is 
> needed where the white wood is really white. And, in fact, you could 
> simply do this to the gouges and make an enormous difference at a very 
> small expense of time and materials. And this would not preclude 
> filling the gouges later, as body putty should stick just fine to the 
> lacquer.
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> fssturm at unm.edu
> “Art is not a mirror held up to reality, but a hammer with which to 
> shape it.” Brecht



<Big Red Steinway 170.jpg>



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