Thanks Kevin!
Here's some more advise....wear safety glasses, (of course out of habit)
but also a dust mask. That carbon fiber is nasty crap and you don't want
to breath it in....it still get's up your nose and you blow yucky black
stuff out, so you should spit a few times as well. The dust is so fine.
Do you have this "newest" glue they're sending? It's also very nasty
sniffing (worse than model glue and acetone combined!), so a mask is also
in order. Make sure you have ample "wiggle" room between hammer and shank
because it sets up so very quickly. By what I've discovered on this first
set, is, heat is only good for "burning in" hammer shanks to get a good 90
degrees up and down ONLY.
The nice thing is that you actually "feel" the shank giving way for
bending and the cooling time is slow enough to actually give you some time
to get the right angle. In and out just doesn't work, so make sure your
hanging jig is absolutely right on for the right hammer to flange
distance/hammer line.
I only covered the bottom of the felt with painter's tape when sawing off
excess shanks, but that still wasn't enough as the dust "floats" around,
being so light and such while I sawed off the end-shanks. I further
covered the hammers while getting the remaining stuffs flush with the
tails also using a Drummel tool with a sanding attachment. Then vacuumed
the ends of the hammers to get rid of any further black stuff so no to
stain the backchecks.
I'm still longing for other CAUT's hanging experiences!!
Best,
Paul
From:
"Fortenberry, Kevin" <kevin.fortenberry at ttu.edu>
To:
"caut at ptg.org" <caut at ptg.org>
Date:
09/07/2010 03:26 PM
Subject:
Re: [CAUT] Question re-asked.... (Paul T Williams)
Paul, That white residue just seems to happen with super glue products
and plastic. Although I am not sure of the exact cause, I am pretty sure
it will not cause any problems. (Perhaps Dryburgh adhesives could shed
some light). As far as the black dust on the hammers, I would suggest
covering the hammers with something (like an old sheet or scrap piece of
muslin) before going to town on hammer shanks with a power tool. Also a
good idea if you ever use a Dremmel to roughen hammer tails, etc. Thanks
for the "heads up" as I have my first set of WNG shanks just waiting to be
installed.
Best, Kevin Fortenberry, Texas Tech University
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Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 1:00 PM
To: caut at ptg.org
Subject: CAUT Digest, Vol 23, Issue 13
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:29:55 -0500
From: Paul T Williams <pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu>
To: CAUTlist <caut at ptg.org>
Subject: [CAUT] Question re-asked....
Message-ID:
<OFE06762D2.E0B07F7F-ON86257797.005488B5-86257797.005523B3 at unl.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi All.
I asked a question a couple weeks ago, but maybe nobody received it.
After gluing on the new hammers on the new WNG shanks with their newest
glue, I got this strange white residue all over the shanks and collars .
It cleans off easily enough with some 0000 steel wool, but; What is it???.
Also when sawing off the shank ends, it really makes a mess of fine black
powder all over the place, most visual on the hammer felt. vacuuming
cleaned off most of it, but now the hammers look "dirty". I used a
dremmel tool with a fine-cut- cutting blade.
Am I doing something wrong, or is this the norm?
Thanks in advance for your most humble thoughts.
Paul
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