Ok. 10. And that’s my last offer <G> Best, Jim From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T Williams Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:57 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block Even with hammer protection in place? Now that I realize how much junk goes all over the place, I will cover my hammers from now on. That's a few minutes already! So let's say 10 minutes. Paul From: Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> To: "caut at ptg.org" <caut at ptg.org> Date: 09/09/2010 04:49 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block ________________________________ 5 minutes max. JB From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T Williams Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:46 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block True as well. So whatever method we use will take 1/2 hour then? I just liked using the Dremmel tool and how fast and cleanly it cut them off. Add in set up time for whatever method we use, and it will take about the same amount of time, eh? Now it's which method leaves the least amount of post sanding time that might make the difference. I've done the Japanese saw, and it's great. Now I've done the Dremmel tool. Both took nearly the same amount of time. I found the Dremmel way doesn't stress the flange centers as much as the saw. It's a matter of old school and new school. I'm a bit of both, ready to try things. When in practice rooms, they say, "that's why they call them practice rooms!!" (Quote from my good friend Richard West) OK...This is a classroom piano, but sort of the same thing...no concerts there or anything...just practice and teaching!) I would have never tried these new WNG on a concert grand without "practicing" somewhere else first! What a great place to be than at a university where this kind of thing can be done!!! In the end, the piano, wherever it is, is a better instrument (we hope)! :>) The helper was using the Dremmel with the sanding attachment to fine tune the hammer tail without taking them off the shank which also helped speed things up. Be careful, though! Not too much caffeine before this application, and it will go in another 10 minutes. Then, voila! nice and ready to go on. It takes a very steady hand and patience.... Paul From: Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> To: "caut at ptg.org" <caut at ptg.org> Date: 09/09/2010 04:29 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block ________________________________ Paul, On the last few sets I used my “Multitool”, http://allprotools.com/dremel/oscillating-tool.html?gclid=CKqMm7Sk-6MCFRxEgwod3HFQHQ and my shank clamps, and it literally took me longer to attach the clamps than it did to cut them off. Best, Jim From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T Williams Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:19 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block Sorry Ted, but no photos were attached! I've also found a Dremmel tool with a cutter works nice and neat as well with little sanding....and very fast! I just tried this with my first set of WNG carbon fiber shanks, and with a few minutes of careful prep (ie covering the hammers to keep the black dust off) works very well. I'll use this method again even with wood shanks. Even a first try took about 15 minutes, and I'm sure it will speed up next time. Are you still in Banff, Alberta? I still have that hammer-top "squaring off" sanding jig you gave me some 15 years ago and use it often! (new sandpaper replaced, of course! ;>) ) Thank you so much! Best, Paul From: Edward Sambell <esambell at yahoo.com> To: caut at ptg.org Date: 09/09/2010 03:43 PM Subject: [CAUT] Hammer shank cutting block ________________________________ The attached photos are of a hammer shank cutting block I made ten years ago and used ever since for cutting away the protruding stubs of new grand hammer shanks. It is based on those used in the Kawai factory. Their technician did a whole set in less than five minutes. I could not work that fast; it generally takes me ten minutes or more. A Japanese saw (which cuts on the pull stroke) MUST be used, as a Western saw can result in damage to the centers. I use a Dozuki (dovetail) saw with a stiff back 9" blade. Cutting flush carefully makes sanding the shank ends unnecessary, though a few strokes with a sanding paddle gives a nice appearance. I have the WNG kit, but have yet to install a set of the shanks, so do not know if the saw will cut them satisfactorily. If it does, there will be very little dust. If anyone is interested in further information, let me know and I will post a sketch and instructions on making the block. It is very simple, and can be made in half an hour, but one does need a table saw and dado blades. As for glue - is hide glue unsuitable for the carbon fibre material? Wherever it makes sense I prefer natural glues. What about fish glue? It sets slowly ,but has a fast tack, . I find it helps correct the vertical angles while gluing the hammers on. Ted Sambell -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20100909/ed585f95/attachment-0001.htm>
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