Here is another attempt to send the photos. The top one shows three grooves ; the center one is employed for all the hammers except the end ones, when the outer grooves are used. At the top edge extra pieces are added to narrow them to the shank diameter. and these are angle cut so that the shank sits in a semi hexagon. In the bottom photo note the two clearance dados, one for the flange screwheads, and one for the drop screws. A pull saw MUST be used as a Western saw will cause the corner closest to the hand using it will lift and damage the center if the saw snags. An Asian saw will tend to hold the block down in place. There is little dust, but if it were a problem, some sort of small hood could be made, and moved from hammer to hammer. With practice, no more than two strokes are needed to cut the stub away; the Kawai tech did it with one every time, and the cut was so flush that sanding was unnecessary. I use a Dozuki (dovetail) saw with a nine inch blade. It has a stiff back. Making the block requires the use of a table saw and dado blades, and takes about half an hour. The dimensions are 4-1/2" H x 4"W x 1-1/2" Thick. A piece of leftover pinblock is ideal. I have yet to use the block on WNG shanks, so do not know how well the saw will cut them, but am looking forward to doing so. Ted Sambell -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20100916/0ccbc0ee/attachment-0001.htm>
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