Titebond (previously just Franklin) liquid hide glue has sufficient additives that it never really hardens. That works great for glueing textiles, tacking them down while minimizing the incidence of 'clicking' from hardened glue. It's also easily reversed with warm water. However, is that what you really want for something taking a whacking all the time or for structural joints? Hot hide glue has been proven to be fantastically strong, while being easily reversed (e.g. you might want to realign your hammer heads). It's easy to use. So why not? There was an article a few years back in Fine Woodworking comparing the strengths of various glues. I keep a mini-fridge in my workshop for keeping it fresh a few days when I just need small amounts. the mini-fridge is also great for keeping drinks cold. Win-win. You might not want to keep it in the family refrigerator unless you live alone. AA Anne Acker Historic Keyboard Specialist Anne Acker Early Keyboards http://www.anneackerkeyboards.com http://www.pianogrands.com mobile 912-704-3048 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman at cox.net> To: caut at ptg.org Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2012 3:21:32 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] [pianotech] Shank glue On 5/8/2012 1:13 PM, Paul Williams wrote: > Has anyone tried the Titebond liquid hide glue? I haven't used it for > hammers, but works well with felt. It'a bit too runny. I see no reason to even try it. The point of using hot hide is that it gels quickly as it cools without running all over the place. Ron N -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20120508/156268ca/attachment.htm>
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