<html>
The method my dad used and taught is to use the teeth on the inside of a
pair of slip-joint pliers to put multiple grooves in the shank. Careful
filing of the outer mating surfaces of the pliers will allow you to close
them a little more, and get a consistent set of grooves. Crushing the
shank is a no-no, but sometimes comes in handy if the shank has been
overly reduced during prep.<br><br>
2¢ worth, U.S.,<br>
Guy<br><br>
At 12:47 PM 7/16/2005 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>In a
message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time,
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes:</font>
<dl>
<dd>I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild
magazine, a
<dd>gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape.
<dd>I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size
of the
<dd>shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the
hole.
<dd>You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the point
was
<dd>out.
<dd>John M. Ross
</dl>I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in
it, that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel
to the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the distance
between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for different shank
sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a bench with
screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for Stark. <br>
<br>
I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I use
a pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank. <br>
<br>
Wim </blockquote></html>