<html> <body> This thread is a virtual "big bang", with different sub-threads expanding rapidly away from each other.  Assuming that Jeff Stickney got enough information for his original question, what remains are the following: Downbearing information about his piano Methods of expediting new-string stability Effects of bridge re-surfacing Concerns about string termination at bridge Tapping strings at bridge To keep the stated thread focused, I'll try to respond specifically to Rogers comments now, though some of my thoughts apply and relate to the other sub-threads.  I should preface any further comments by saying that  these issues are relate (I think) to a discussion recently on pianotech, starting with the thread: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 06:10:29 -0500 From: David Skolnik <davidskolnik@optonline.net> Subject: Re: No downbearing ? REVISITED</blockquote> and continuing through: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 00:21:25 -0500 From: David Skolnik <davidskolnik@optonline.net> Subject: Re: Soundboard stiffening (was Re: No downbearing)</blockquote> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:28:54 -0500 From: Mark Kinsler <kinsler33@hotmail.com> Subject: an analysis of downbearing, etc.</blockquote> At the time I would have been interested in the views of CAUT subscribers, but long ago decided against encouraging the insanity of a multiply- listed thread. Respectfully, I think the question of tapping the string at the bridge is being inadequately addressed.  It has come to where the concept can't be discussed without the reflexive caution against tapping, for fear of causing damage, primarily to the bridge.  Clearly, anything we do to a piano can, if misapplied, cause damage.  Excessive pressure from a straight-mate type of device can kink strings and damage capos.  Pressing down the string too vigorously with a blunt tool or while burnishing can do more damage to the bridge than light tapping. Surely though, is anyone saying that, if done with care, a string can't be rendered to a bridge surface without causing damage to either?  Are they? Let's be clear.  Tapping strings will not cure loose or deformed bridge pins, or bad notching.  Conversely, tapping pins will not reseat a string which has lost contact with the bridge edge due to negative front bearing.  The question then becomes, is it desirable to re-establish that contact, and why? What are the assumptions about string termination at the bridge?  It was never quite clarified for me in the sometime-heated dialogue on pianotech, referred to above.  The bridge pin certainly seems to be the active player in the pin-notch duality, but what then is the terminating function of the notch, and what are the effects of subtle "notch-failure", meaning when termination is not simultaneous? If tapping strings is bad, and tapping pins will not seat a string elevated from the notch edge by negative front bearing (it doesn't take much), what's a feller to do?  In my experience, the trade off is (temporarily) cleaner tuning verses increased tuning instability.  That is, tapping strings will eliminate the falseness being caused by poor termination, which, in turn, is ( in some cases) caused by negative front bearing, but it puts the string into an unstable orientation, waiting to return to a more neutral position, somewhat elevated on the pin, above the notch edge. Is this also two cents worth? More? Less? David Skolnik At 11:59 PM 3/31/2004 -0600, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi  Wim,                 Bin thar done that, and bought the teeshirt. Have  even taught it.  Now It's a no no.  I know better. Tap the bridge pin with a pin punch, the friction of the slight movement of the pin, is more than enough to seat the string.    If you have to touch the string,  just press down with a very blunt screw driver, parallel to the bridge pin is all it takes.   A false beat caused by a bad notch, or a loose pin, will not be cleared up by tapping the string. No tapping strings,  it is bad for the health of the piano. All too frequently the beat is coming from the opposite termination point,  so lift the strings first to improve stability, Then burnish the string with a hammer shank at the bridge pins. My 2cents worth. Regards Roger <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Tapping strings should be done on an as needed basis. If you don't tap the strings, it will, as you point out, create false beats, and it weakens the tone. So why would you not tap the strings? As long as you use a brass rod of some sort on the strings, I don't think you're going to compromise the strings. Not only do I use a brass rod, I use a soft face hammer because I think It reduces the impact of the rod on the string. However, I was taught to always tap the strings on the bridge, not in front of the bridge. This reduces the notching of the bridge.   Wim Willem Blees, RPT Piano Technician School of Music University of Alabama</blockquote></blockquote></body> </html>