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<DIV>In a message dated 9/5/2004 9:31:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
davidlovepianos@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
<DIV> <FONT size=3> Hi
David</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> WIth the grain directions on the rib to
soundboard joint being opposite one another. I would think this wold be=
a
help. This is a light toothing. i'm speaking of as the original ribbing
had. I hope I didn't give the wrong impression.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Sanding doesn't give the same grip of rib to board=
but
point well taken.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> DAle</FONT></DIV>
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<P>How about a bit of light sanding. Excessive toothing won't actual=
ly
help with glue adhesion or strengthen the joint. The best glue joint=
s
have only a few microns of glue in the joint. Excessive toothing can=
increase the thickness of the glue in the joint to the point that
it actually loses strength.</P>
<P>David Love <BR></P>
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<DIV><FONT size=3>List </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>I was helping a friend learn bridge work ( Fenton Mu=
rray)
& we got to talking about how to put the tooth or the lines one ofte=
n
sees in two wooden parts joined together. This tooth gives a better glue=
adhesion. Any way he found a toothing blade for my nielsen plane. So far=
I
find hand holding it & using like a scraper works pretty well to put=
a
tooth on the backs of soft wood ribs.Probaly isn't good for the blade bu=
t
.....the toothing has incidentally has reduced the slidin around the rib=
s
want to do when pressin them on the board.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>This toothing business isalso good for bridge caps &=
amp;
bodies before joining.</FONT> <FONT size=3>Good for a host of other
applications you all are probaly thinking about.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Blessings</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3>Dale</FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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