<html>
<body>
<font size=3><br>
Happy Easter Don :-D<br>
Quick eye's there my friend. Extra glue was put on so it would show
up in the photo. I have been doing this for a number of years for
the odd pulley key with no problems encountered.<br>
I wipe balance rail pins with a very thin smear of protec grease<br><br>
I had tried steaming the holes, with cauls to protect the bushings, it
sized the bushing cloth just right but the BR holes were still
loose.<br>
I always try steam first, In the field a wet cloth over the hole then
apply the tip of the iron. Trust me this was way
too bad for that.<br><br>
Sizing holes, We just use the same size BR pin in a battery operated
drill. Two or three revolutions, buzzzzzzzzz buzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Whole
set sized to perfection in 5 mins. Heck we get lots of practice
selling Yamaha. I know Kawai is perfect from the
factory. ;-)<br><br>
This is the first time I have ever sized all 88 keys this
way. First time I encountered all 88 needing to be sized
because of pulley problems.<br><br>
Regards Roger<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
<br>
At 10:22 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote:<br>
</font><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">
<font size=3 color="#000080">Roger,<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080">Well, for once I'm going to have to
disagree with one of your excellent posts. I think the amount of
glue shown looks like too much, and will lead to 'ticking' of the keys
over the next year or two. I am not referring to a noisy key from
the hardness of the glue, I am speaking of a sticking at the start of key
movement from the somewhat rubbery / plasticky nature of the glue.<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080">This is very much like the Chinese
key syndrome, where the piano company has coated the keys to help
stabilize the holes. They make a loud 'click' the first time you
play them, then they are quiet until you stop playing them for a while
and come back.<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080">Were these keys so loose that simple
steaming would not do the job? I have taken a similar approach to
yours by steaming the key holes, then either inserting the pins as you
have done (which works), or allowed the wood to dry and eased them
normally. I find the easing the over tight hole to be preferable to
(albeit slower than) using a sizing pin, because the contact area with
the key pin after fitting is smaller. The key is snug at the very
bottom of the key hole, giving a nicer key movement.<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080">Keep an ear out on these keys for a
while - prove me wrong. Maybe some Teflon on the pins will prevent
any noise (although this doesn't work well on the Chinese keys).<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080"> :-)</font><font size=3><br>
<br>
</font><font size=3 color="#000080">Don Mannino<br>
</font>
<dl>
<dd><font face="tahoma" size=2>-----Original Message-----<br>
<dd>From:</b> caut-bounces@ptg.org
[<a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">
mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of </b>Roger Jolly<br>
<dd>Sent:</b> Thursday, March 24, 2005 6:36 PM<br>
<dd>To:</b> College and University Technicians<br>
<dd>Subject:</b> [CAUT] Pulley keys.<br><br>
</font>
<dd><font size=3>Greetings all.<br>
<dd>
I solution for pulley keys.<br><br>
<dd>Use a set of balance rail pins, Mix 50% PVC-E glue with 50%
water. Swab hole, insert pin from the top of the key, swab around bottom
of key to form a meniscus around pin. Allow 24 hrs to dry.
Pin will be frozen in position. Rotate pin one turn, and it will
slide out.<br><br>
<dd>Hole will be sized tp perfection.<br><br>
<dd>This piano was a 70's Steinway L with the felt knuckles. All 88
had been over sized to try and solve friction problems. What a
mess.<br><br>
<dd>Roger <br>
</font>
</dl></blockquote></body>
</html>