<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [CAUT] Re: Steinway Damper sytem upgrade &=
redesign</TITLE></HEAD>
<BODY>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana></FONT>I've put it in the "old=
bag of tricks"</P>
<P align=left>David I.</P>
<P align=left> </P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana></FONT> </P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>----- Original message=
----------------------------------------><BR>From: Fred Sturm=
<<A=
href="mailto:fssturm@unm.edu">fssturm@unm.edu</A>><BR>To: "<A=
href="mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net">ilvey@sbcglobal.net</A>,=
College and University Technicians" <<A=
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A>><BR>Received:=
Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:59:14 -0700<BR>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Re:=
Steinway Damper sytem upgrade & redesign</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana><BR>On 11/8/04 2:56 PM, "David=
Ilvedson" <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> wrote:<BR><BR></P></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=Verdana>Yeah, but I can permanently fix=
the problem and certainly get more friction relief than your=
method AND I can charge $150 for the work...;-]=
<BR><BR>The job usually takes less than an hour for=
me. I charge $100 if I'm there tuning the piano.=
<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=Verdana><BR>Hi=
David,<BR> No question there isn’t all=
<I>that</I> much difference in time. But I can fit it into “the=
next tuning appointment” without allowing even an extra half=
hour, so I find it a bit more convenient from a scheduling point=
of view. And I charge a little less than $100 ($75). Depends on=
the customer. Like I said, it was that very strong negative=
reaction to my description of the “preferred method” from a=
particular customer that got me to think of an alternative. So=
there it is in the old bag of tricks, for the low budget places=
(read “institutions” in particular, not actually including the=
one where I am employed, now that I am employed and not=
contract, but often churches and such), and instances where in=
home major drilling is an issue.<BR> BTW,=
drilling the hole for the pitman pin: Use a long bit (6” will=
do). First drop the trap lever and drill all the way through it=
from the top, positioning the hole a bit to the back of the=
dimple produced by the original pitman, taking care to drill=
perpendicularly. Then put the lever back into position, and=
insert the drill bit through that hole from the bottom, using=
that hole as a guide to drill into the bottom of the lift tray=
(This makes sure you get the holes nicely lined up with one=
another to avoid any binding problems). Observe the angle and=
placement of the drill bit in relation to the hole through the=
keybed to ensure you are centered (fudged a bit to the back). Of=
course, I would also generally pull the action, and use the=
dimple in the tray leather as additional positioning=
information. <BR>Regards,<BR>Fred Sturm<BR>University of New=
Mexico<BR><FONT=
color=#0000ff><U>http://music.unm.edu/about/staff_members/fred_s=
_sturm.php<BR></U></FONT>A mind is not a vessel to be filled, but=
a fire to be kindled. <BR></FONT></BODY></HTML>