<HTML><HEAD> <META charset=US-ASCII http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; cha= rset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1505" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff= f"> <DIV> <DIV>Hi, Alan,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I was in the middle of doing one of these jobs - not in the shop, but o= n the dining room table - when Isaac Sadigursky picked me up - we were ridin= g together to teach at the AZ convention.   My wife was helping (s= he's faster than me, and I was so happy, since she won't do it but once in a= blue moon <IMG src="http://cdn-cf.aol.com/se/smi/0201d20638/01"> - t= hat's about once every three years).   Isaac saw the setup (I= was replacing the flanges) and he said, "Your wasting all your time!  = You can do this job in a couple of hours"  You know Isaac.   = </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>He had attended a class at an annual convention and had learned to do t= he whole thing leaving the butts on and taking off the dampers.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The key to it was to use a dental scraping tool to clean the slots quic= kly, to precut the cord accurately and quickly (he wrapped it around a suita= bly sized cylinder and cut them all at the same time very quickly), and, I t= hink, using CA glue.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I still have to get that dental scraper...And I'm going to call Isaac a= gain when I do the next job.  </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The last several jobs I've used Tokiwa flanges, which is OK but the tra= veling is not fun, you have to file the hammers because you'll never get the= hammer/string alignment back exactly (you might be filing anyway of co= urse), and, well, those old Yamaha flanges are still really good flanges....= .</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Have fun!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bill Shull</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>He In a message dated 2/18/2006 6:58:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, regga= epass@aol.com writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue = 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana'"> <DIV>Hi All,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>This Monday I will replace all of the hammer <SPAN class=correction i= d="">return</SPAN> spring slings on an older Yamaha <SPAN class=correcti= on id="">U3</SPAN>.  Yamaha graciously provided the cord material.&nb= sp; Someone advised removing all of the dampers and leaving the ha= mmers on for the operation.  However, looks to me like it would be rath= er tricky to get the glue and the right length of cord in the right place in= the hammer flange slots with the hammers still on the rail.  My curren= t plan is to leave the dampers, but remove all of the hammers so they may be= handled individually.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Anybody out there worked through this to their satisfaction?  Got = a solvent that works better than alcohol for loosening up the old glue?&nbsp= ; For installing the new cords, have you used CA, hide glue, what-have-you?&= nbsp; </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Any and all input is welcome, all the <SPAN class=correction id="">= more so</SPAN> if it is before Monday morning.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Have a good weekend,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Alan <SPAN class=correction id="">Eder, RPT</SPAN></DIV></DIV></BLO= CKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>