<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>Hi Wim,</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>an easy stripped-screw repair for the "not a very good woodworker" is the cross-dowel repair:</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>Drill through the hole from the side (use masking tape for a depth guide), knurl the dowel a bit, glue it in and saw it flush.</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>Now you can drill through the side of the dowel, via the original screw hole, with a bit equal to or slightly larger than the root or shank (screw diameter, less the thread) of the wood screw.</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>This repair presents the grain of the dowel in the correct orientation for strength, and usually provides just enough wood to hold a thread, in non-critical applications. </SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>I've often used hammer shanks to repair those doomed-to-fail end screw-holes on spinet/console music rests. (thanks to a PTJournal contributor)</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>best regards,</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>Mark Cramer</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006>Brandon University</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006> </SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=600000018-08032006></SPAN> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Wimblees@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 08, 2006 11:32 AM<BR><B>To:</B> caut@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] front rail delemna<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial> <DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 3/8/2006 11:25:12 AM Central Standard Time, hoffsoco@luther.edu writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial>I've routed out the slot area and lain in new wood to make a new tight <BR>slot.  That way I don't confuse myself when I go to remove the keyslip.<BR><BR>BTW, this one's also in a practice room... ;-}<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>I thought about that, but I am not a very good woodworker. <IMG src="http://cdn-cf.aol.com/se/smi/0201d20638/03" NOSEND="1"></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Wim </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>