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<TITLE>Re: [CAUT] Capstan Repositioning</TITLE>
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<FONT FACE="Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:12.0px'>Hello Ken,<BR>
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I have done this before and did just use plugs, rather than doweling (wrong grain orientation). My method was to drill out the original hole to accommodate the closest size of plug cutter (1/8” ?) that I had. That way you can use spruce or whatever wood the keys are made of. That seems less invasive to me than cutting a large chunk out of the key. The main problems are locating the proper material and getting the perfect size of plug cutter.<BR>
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Whatever method you choose, I’m sure it will work fine if applied judiciously. Have you considered that the movement away from the balance rail will increase your touch weight? Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out.<BR>
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All the best,<BR>
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Craig Waldrop<BR>
Baylor School of Music<BR>
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On 5/2/06 9:00 AM, "Ken Zahringer" <ZahringerK@missouri.edu> wrote:<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE="4"><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>We have a Steinway M (c. 1960) here who’s capstan line is askew significantly. The capstan on A0 is about 1/4” closer to the balance pin than the capstan on C8. The cap contacts the front of the wippen cushion on A0, and the back on C8. Dip at A0 is .420, dip at C8 is .390. I am planning on straightening this out this summer.<BR>
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My tentative plan right now is to remove a piece of wood from the keystick, about 1/2 x 1/2 inch, and glue in an insert for the new hole. I was thinking of using poplar for the insert. Since I’m moving the hole such a short distance (max 1/8”), I wouldn’t think simply plugging with a dowel and redrilling would work very well. Any comments, criticisms, or dire warnings?<BR>
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Thanks,<BR>
Ken Z.<BR>
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