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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ken, You should have more than cosmetic reasons for
making this "repair." You need to discover the key ratio and the Action or
Strike Ratio for a good sampling of the keys because sometimes to "wrongs" can
make a right and no one sees what you are looking at but they do feel the
ratios. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chris Solliday</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=ZahringerK@missouri.edu href="mailto:ZahringerK@missouri.edu">Ken
Zahringer</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:00
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [CAUT] Capstan
Repositioning</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=Garamond><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14px">We have a
Steinway M (c. 1960) here who’s capstan line is askew significantly. The
capstan on A0 is about 1/4” closer to the balance pin than the capstan on C8.
The cap contacts the front of the wippen cushion on A0, and the back on
C8. Dip at A0 is .420, dip at C8 is .390. I am planning on
straightening this out this summer.<BR><BR>My tentative plan right now is to
remove a piece of wood from the keystick, about 1/2 x 1/2 inch, and glue in an
insert for the new hole. I was thinking of using poplar for the insert.
Since I’m moving the hole such a short distance (max 1/8”), I wouldn’t
think simply plugging with a dowel and redrilling would work very well.
Any comments, criticisms, or dire warnings?<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Ken
Z.<BR>-- <BR>Ken Zahringer, RPT<BR>University of Missouri<BR>School of
Music<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN></FONT></BODY></HTML>