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<div>Hi Ken,</div>
<div>I've found that taking out the bushings isn't a problem. I also
use the Spurlock sizing cauls with the softer wood key buttons - I
think it makes a difference as far as getting a consistent size for
the mortise. The key buttons that I've seen on the slightly newer
(circa 1970) 1098s here aren't great - some kind of basswood that's
pretty soft.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Good luck with your projects!</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Respectfully,</div>
<div>Jon</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Garamond">I'm just running
into all sorts of odd stuff here lately.<br>
<br>
We have two S&S 45s from 1953 here that need a lot of work.
My first step was going to be to replace the key bushings, but
when I opened the piano up and looked at the keys, I found the
bushings were set below the surface of the key button, and the wood
was deformed right next to the bushing, as if the bushing had been
installed in the usual manner, and then punched down almost 1/16".
I have attached a picture, but it doesn't have the
detail I would have liked. All the key buttons are like this,
and all the front bushings as well, so I suspect it is factory
original. It really doesn't look like the results from one of
those "key bushing tightener" jobs.<br>
<br>
I have only worked on a couple of SS45s; has anyone seen this before?
My main concern is that when I try to remove the bushings I'll
take a big chunk of the wood, the part that was punched down, along
with it. I wonder if I ought to just plan on replacing the
buttons. What do y'all think?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
Ken Z.<br>
--<br>
Ken Zahringer, RPT<br>
University of Missouri<br>
School of Music</font></blockquote>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<x-sigsep><pre>--
</pre></x-sigsep>
<div>Jon Ralinovsky<br>
Piano Technician<br>
Department of Music<br>
Miami University<br>
513/529-6548</div>
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