<HTML><BODY style="word-wrap: break-word; -khtml-nbsp-mode: space; -khtml-line-break: after-white-space; "><BR><DIV><DIV>On Nov 6, 2006, at 11:36 AM, Ron Nossaman wrote:</DIV><BR class="Apple-interchange-newline"><BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><P style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px"><FONT face="Helvetica" size="3" style="font: 12.0px Helvetica">Just the cheap disposable craft brushes, a couple of mm in diameter, a couple of dozen in a package. Most are plastic handles now, but you can still find them with natural bristles and metal ferrels.</FONT></P> </BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR><DIV>I get them at Harbor Freight (we are fortunate to have one here). They are available in packs of 36, with metal handles and with either plastic or hair bristles. Here are the plastic ones (which work just fine for gluing):</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV> <A href="http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=41338&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=">http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=41338&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=</A> </DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>Catch em on sale from time to time for about $3, I think. The 1/2" size is about the width of the cloth, but the bristles are too long for rebushing work, so I trim them and I think I've even thinned out the bristles some. They are also available in a packet of assorted sizes. I've also seen them, with shorter handles, hanging on the end of an aisle at Hobby Lobby. I tend to put the glue directly on the cloth only when I have one or two to repair. (for that I use the wooden coffee stirrers I find around various and sundry coffee makers in offices here at the school -- not $tarbuck$) For a full set, that gets messy. I hate messy.</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>I agree with whoever said there isn't a "best" method. Just one that works for you. I have read the Spurlock method, but must admit, I've not used his bushing cauls. The method though, is basically the same as the old fashioned or traditional way, with a "twist". You still have to gauge the depth in the hole and feel confident that regardless of how tightly you hold the cloth, the caul isn't pulling it too deep or that you've left it too shallow. I've tried removing the caul to check and see, but that always winds up back at start over except that the second time is more messy and you've probably now gotten glue on the wrong side of the cloth so you cut it off and do it all over again.</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>I use the Spurlock sizing cauls, which I think are essential, and then Bushmaster with brass cauls. I don't do rebushing often enough to remember what tricks I developed last time, so the Bushmaster makes it more simple and consistent for me. I'm more confident of the depth in the mortise with Bushmaster, but can't imagine how one could put the glue directly on the cloth without keeping the Bushmaster tool clogged up with glue and getting glue on the wrong side of the bushing cloth all the time. Also, I don't like trimming the cloth until the glue is dry for the same reason, so one more reason I like the Bushmaster. And yes, you definitely reduce waste by doing sharps separately. You can also reuse the waste from between the natural heads in either the sharps or balance mortise, but there is more waste than with traditional style methods.</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>I have given hide glue an honest effort but find it way too difficult to control the application and it gets messy for me. If I did it more regularly, I might change my mind. I just use basic Elmer's white glue. It's cheap, easy to work with, it sticks, and it removes easily with steam. I remove bushings with the electric bushing remover and water in a hypo oiler. Presoak with wallpaper remover solution if they're stubborn.</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>All that said, I'm probably looking at doing a bunch of rebushing jobs over the next couple years, so we'll see what further develops.</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><BR><BR><DIV> <SPAN class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: auto; -khtml-text-decorations-in-effect: none; text-indent: 0px; -apple-text-size-adjust: auto; text-transform: none; orphans: 2; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; "><DIV>Jeff Tanner, RPT</DIV><DIV>University of South Carolina</DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><BR class="Apple-interchange-newline"></SPAN> </DIV><BR></BODY></HTML>