Hi Willem, Don't you let the wood dry before installing new bushings?  That is, if you're steaming them out.... Paul <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td width=40%>Willem Blees <wblees@bama.ua.edu> Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org 11/06/2006 12:30 PM <table border> <tr valign=top> <td bgcolor=white> <div align=center>Please respond to College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org></div></table> <td width=59%> <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>To</div> <td>College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>cc</div> <td> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>Subject</div> <td>Re: [CAUT] RE :  key bushing removal</table> <table> <tr valign=top> <td> <td></table> </table> <tt>Richard I do have a problem, at times, with a button coming loose. But I don't think it is such a big deal. A little super glue and the button is back in place. On some balance rail bushings where the felt is actually underneath the button, I use a thin screw driver to remove the felt. It takes a little longer, but have not had much trouble with it. I use Spurlock's cauls and it takes me about 2 hours to remove, and rebush a front or balance rail. If I do the balance rail in the morning, I can do the front rail late in the afternoon, and by next morning, after I trim, I'm ready to install the keys.   Wim Willem Blees, RPT Piano Tuner/Technician School of Music University of Alabama Tuscaloosa, AL USA Quoting "rwest1@unl.edu" <rwest1@unl.edu>: > Wim: > > I used to use that method, but one time the bushings were   > particularly stubborn, so much so that steaming out the bushings was > > also loosening the glue joint holding the button to the key.  Since > > then I've used the felt-plugs-in-the-mortise method. I like that the > > bushings come out easily, but it's also easy to get too much water in >   > the plug and key.  I've also tried dampening the bushings and the   > using the hot (as in soldering iron hot) brass bushing remover.  I   > didn't have much luck with that. > > What are the opinions on the best bushing removal method?  Are there > > any other methods out there that are less apt to cause trouble?  I   > get a good final result, but I'm just not very happy with how I get > > there. > > Also the big reason why I like hot hide glue is that it provides a   > good, long-lasting glue joint that lets go when you want it to. In a > > university setting that's a great feature. > > I hope this isn't too basic for this esteemed list. > > Richard West > > > On Nov 6, 2006, at 10:59 AM, Willem Blees wrote: > > > Quoting Cy Shuster <cy@shusterpiano.com>: > > > >> How do you get 'em out when you rebush?  That's the downside of > >> Titebond... > >> > >> --Cy-- > > > > I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier time > > getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the other > > glues some of the factories use. > > > > Wim > > > > > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Willem Blees" <wblees@bama.ua.edu> > >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> > >> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:17 PM > >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings > >> > >> > >>> Why bother with sticks and brushes? I use tightbond and put it > on > >> with > >>> my fingers. > >>> > >>> Wim > >> > > > > > > Willem Blees, RPT > > Piano Tuner/Technician > > School of Music > > University of Alabama > > Tuscaloosa, AL USA > </tt>