<HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"></HEAD> <BODY style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none">I would think white glue would soak to much into the bushing cloth.   Advantage of hot hide glue is it gels quickly.  I'm also thinking the trim and molding glue from Pianotek would be appropriate if it comes out easily?   David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 <DIV style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px"> <HR> Original message From: "Susan Kline" <SKLINE@PEAK.ORG> To: "College and University Technicians" <CAUT@PTG.ORG> Received: 11/6/2006 10:21:57 AM Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings At 08:59 AM 11/6/2006, you wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite">I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier time getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the other glues some of the factories use. Wim </BLOCKQUOTE> Yeah, well - I use white glue. <muffled sounds of horror in the background.> And they will come out just fine with a little alcohol soak, even after a long time. The layer is thin, after all. It's MUCH easier to spread white glue on the strip, and it lasts long enough for four or five bushings - as much cloth as will lie along the length of my thumb while spreading the glue. I use a small screwdriver, and keep a puddle of the white glue in a jar lid. Have to add more now and then, as it thickens. Susan </DIV></BODY></HTML>