<HTML><BODY style="word-wrap: break-word; -khtml-nbsp-mode: space; -khtml-line-break: after-white-space; "><DIV><SPAN class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: auto; -khtml-text-decorations-in-effect: none; text-indent: 0px; -apple-text-size-adjust: auto; text-transform: none; orphans: 2; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; "><SPAN class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: auto; -khtml-text-decorations-in-effect: none; text-indent: 0px; -apple-text-size-adjust: auto; text-transform: none; orphans: 2; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; "></SPAN></SPAN></DIV><DIV><DIV>On Nov 14, 2006, at 9:37 AM, <A href="mailto:davidskolnik@optonline.net">davidskolnik@optonline.net</A> wrote:</DIV><BR class="Apple-interchange-newline"><BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: auto; -khtml-text-decorations-in-effect: none; text-indent: 0px; -apple-text-size-adjust: auto; text-transform: none; orphans: 2; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; "><FONT color="#333333"><SPAN class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); ">Fred - I may be wrong, and in any case, am assuming you have the part in hand (unmounted), but I have always measured at the end of the lever leather. I'm not sure I know where the "standard 1" " comes from in this case. Clearly this is an important question to clarify, as, lacking such consensus, we may as well be describing the resistance in colors.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV>Hi David,<BR><DIV><SPAN class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </SPAN>The 1" standard is often used for hammerflanges, as their lengths differ, in some cases by a great deal. So if we want to have a standard friction for all hammerflange centers, some standard distance is needed. For rep levers, the distance from the center to the leather is pretty close to standard on all butterfly spring wipps, so one could have that be the standard. It does make considerable difference where you measure, hence my question.</DIV><DIV><BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">I may be wrong, but I simply disengage the lower arm from the jack hole and, VOILA! You can measure both lever and jack. The express version would, I suppose, be to hold the wippen in one hand from underneath, with my thumb and another finger, pull down the upper spring arm. That works too<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>Well, with spring released from the jack, the jack is now free, but the spring still wants to touch the rep. To hold the rep side of the spring down, with jack side engaged, you need to compress it quite a bit to get enough motion to measure, meaning you might be weakening it noticeably. Trying it again as I write, I find that, yes, I can rotate the spring enough when it is released from the jack to have it enough out of the way. Putting that end back in the jack isn't my favorite thing to do, but that seems to be the way to go. Thanks. I guess I hadn't fussed enough.</DIV><DIV><BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">I do not like use fluted reamers on this material. I don't think they are sharp enough to cut cleanly. I make up roughened center pins which I carefully measure (to .0001" resolution) to have better control of the sizing. <BR></BLOCKQUOTE>I don't use fluted reamers either. I use roughened music wire, AKA Mannino broaches. And I use un-roughened music wire to burnish, with a fast enough action to create heat from friction, to pack the fibers. But with the teflon added, this seems to change the behavior considerably, and these techniques don't seem to work.</DIV><DIV><SPAN class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </SPAN>BTW, Steinway's recommendation about using methanol should be clarified to include the notion of a TINY drop applied directly to the offending bushing. Large quantities will wash the teflon out, leaving you with a mushy cloth bushing - not a good thing - so Eric and Kent tell me.<BR><DIV><DIV>Regards,</DIV><DIV>Fred Sturm</DIV><DIV>University of New Mexico</DIV><DIV><A href="mailto:fssturm@unm.edu">fssturm@unm.edu</A></DIV><DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>