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<TITLE>Re: [CAUT] re-stringing Steinway D: pinblock preparation</TITLE>
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<FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>That’s interesting, Jeff. Maybe the mode of removal doesn’t make as much difference as I thought. I have restrung without replacing the block only twice in the last 10 years or so, and both times I didn’t handle the pins until I had backed them all out, by which time they had apparently cooled off. Both pianos still tune great, though. There’s always something to learn out there.<BR>
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Ken Z.<BR>
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On 12/4/06 2:14 PM, "Jeff Tanner" <jtanner@mozart.sc.edu> wrote:<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>On Dec 2, 2006, at 12:19 PM, Ken Zahringer wrote:<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>If you’re absolutely committed to keeping the original block, here’s my two cents worth:<BR>
</SPAN></FONT><OL><LI><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>Remove the old pins with a brace or ratchet, not an electric drill. It’s more work, but it keeps the heat down and won’t glaze the hole.<BR>
</SPAN></FONT></OL></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>Ken,<BR>
I'll have to take issue with this. Another technician here showed me exactly the opposite just recently. Removing the pins with a brace (or even a T-stringing hammer) got the pins so hot you couldn't hold them. The electric drill didn't give them time to get hot. They were warm, but you could hold them.<BR>
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Jeff<BR>
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</SPAN><FONT SIZE="2"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:12.0px'>Jeff Tanner, RPT<BR>
University of South Carolina<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Garamond"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:14.0px'>-- <BR>
Ken Zahringer, RPT<BR>
Piano Technician<BR>
MU School of Music<BR>
297 Fine Arts<BR>
882-1202<BR>
cell 489-7529<BR>
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