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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>it's concave oval just like the top section of most
sets of hex shanks. And there are those amazing toothpicks that some Yamahas
have in the high treble. I see what Ron has said re I beam
construction and my only point is that they sound better to me and this may just
be my and a few others preference. Wally says it's more like a golf club, I
don't really know what that means either, I'll leave the
rest to the more educated folks, mean time I gotta go remove some
material from some hexshanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chris Solliday</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=ed440@mindspring.com href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com">Ed Sutton</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, May 19, 2007 1:38
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] killer shanks</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chris-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I must have missed some posts on this
thread.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Could you give a clear description of
the cross section of the shank when you are finished
rehaping?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Is it convex () </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>or concave )( </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ed Sutton</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=solliday@ptd.net href="mailto:solliday@ptd.net">Chris Solliday</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, May 19, 2007 12:53
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [CAUT] killer shanks</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bob Hull</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Yes I taper/channel the whole set and sort by
weight. I am told that the stiffening is akin to I-beam construction but I
am not an engineer so consider that hearsay. Speaking of hearing just put a
tapered shank in the middle of the bass section amongst the hex and see
if you hear a difference. I do. I get a stronger 3rd partial most of the
time and I like that. I think tha doing this clears up the tone of
the whole piano. You should experiment for yourself. A factory channeled
complete set is available from Abel through Wally Brooks who was the first
person to point out the attributes of doing this for me. As
I recall they are only Hamburg specs but I have used them with success.
Wally will also channel other sets for you for a small fee. I am
told that other sets are available from Pianotek and others but I have not
gotten any so consider that a rumor. Usually I channel my own with a router
gig and/or free hand on a belt sander. It is surprising how quickly
and uniformly they can be turned out which is why i often don't bother
with the router set up. I sort by weight to help smooth the Strikeweight
taper ala Stanwood. I hope we can get some slow mo video on the difference
someday.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chris
Solliday</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>