<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)">  <title>Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair</title> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PlaceName"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> David,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Yamaha teaches to carefully do the “backwards feel” thread thing, but if it does strip they sell oversized screws. If the oversized screw strips out (Yes, we did have a gorilla working for us a while back) then they will sell you a new rail. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> That’s when I found the heli coils to be valuable. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Regards,<o:p></o:p> Jim Busby<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Ilvedson Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 6:01 PM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> Seems to me Yamaha would have a good solution... David Ilvedson, RPT <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Pacifica</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">CA</st1:State> <st1:PostalCode w:st="on">94044</st1:PostalCode></st1:place><o:p></o:p> <div style='border:none;border-left:solid black 2.25pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt'> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> Original message From: "Mark Cramer" <cramer@brandonu.ca>  </cramer@brandonu.ca>To: "<st1:PersonName w:st="on">College and University Technicians</st1:PersonName>" <caut@ptg.org>  </caut@ptg.org>Received: 6/27/2007 9:33:35 AM Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> How timely Barbara and Jim, I'm just traveling a new set of S/F's on a 1976 C-7 and found a stripped hole in the bass.<o:p></o:p> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Can you suggest a place to look for this kit... auto supplies, etc? Does it have a parts number, or go by the thread size?<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Otherwise, I seem to recall someone suggesting there was a nominal upsize thread (imperial or metric?) that could be used.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> thanks,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Mark Cramer<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Brandon</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceName w:st="on">University</st1:PlaceName></st1:place><o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> PS The alignment groove in the aftermarket parts I'm using doesn't quite line up with the wire Yamaha recesses into their action rails. This pulls the flange away from the lip that the flanges butt against, making it difficult to get a nice alignment.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Fortunately, there's a recess in that lip, and I was ABEL to thread a peice of #16 music wire between and the flange. Now I'm left with about a .25mm gap between the lip and the flange, but at least it's precise.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>      <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Barbara Richmond Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:34 AM To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">College and University Technicians</st1:PersonName> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> <div> Hi Jim,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> I bought the Recoil kit, but it has no screws in it.  What screws did you use?  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> John Dewey also mentioned this repair in his class, Action Frame Diagnosis and Repair, so, if it is OK with you, I will also list him on the submission since I am putting together a special "TT&T goes to the convention."<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Thanks,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Barbara<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-color:black'> From: <a href="mailto:jim_busby@byu.edu" title="jim_busby@byu.edu">Jim Busby</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> To: <a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" title="caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 3:58 PM<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Subject: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   <o:p></o:p> </div> List,<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Here’s a way to repair stripped screw holes (Especially if an oversized screw strips) in an aluminum rail that takes less than a minute or two. “Helicoils” is what they are called. (See attached pic.) <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> You drill out the hole and tap it, then insert the little coil which disappears into the tapped threads, and then you’re good to go! Maybe this has been shown on CAUT before, I don’t remember seeing it. The new screw is actually a machine screw with fine threads so it takes a few more rotations, but this is way better than anything else I’ve ever tried. The package shows a bolt, but what actually goes in has a Phillips head and looks like a normal screw.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Jim Busby RPT<o:p></o:p> BYU<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </blockquote> </div> </div> </body> </html>