<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PlaceName"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Hi Don,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> You’re right, under normal circumstances the methods listed below work well. I generally use the Fastenall system after the 2nd stripping of the hole. At BYU, with all the student helpers, we do end up with many stripped holes. Green student techs sometimes have more muscle than wisdom. No problem anymore.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> The “heli coils” are so incredibly fast and easy to install (Less than 1 minute. I timed myself) and will never strip again. I think that’s the beauty of the system. And you can’t tell it’s there, except the screw is now a special bolt thread which you can’t interchange. (And, I guess you shouldn’t anyway.) <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Jim Busby BYU<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Don Mannino Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 11:51 AM To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">College and University Technicians</st1:PersonName> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> Mark,<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> A couple of other repairs that work well if the hole isn't too far gone . . .<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> 1. Oversized screws are available from Yamaha - or at least, they used to have them.  I haven't checked recently :-)<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> 2. Swedging the hole works very well in many cases.  I use a fine screwdriver with a sharp tip, position it at the edge of the hole and tap with a small hammer until you have a mark in the aluminum.  Repeat in a star pattern around the hole on all sides, so that you end up with 8 little lines radiating out from the hole.  The original screw should tighten normally now.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> In extreme cases I have turned the rail over and repeated the swedging on the bottom as well.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Really, the hole would need to be really, really badly damaged to require a threaded insert, but I can see that happening.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Don Mannino<o:p></o:p> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid navy 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <o:p> </o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabIndex=-1> </div> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Mark Cramer Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 AM To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">College and University Technicians</st1:PersonName> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> <div> How timely Barbara and Jim, I'm just traveling a new set of S/F's on a 1976 C-7 and found a stripped hole in the bass.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Can you suggest a place to look for this kit... auto supplies, etc? Does it have a parts number, or go by the thread size?<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Otherwise, I seem to recall someone suggesting there was a nominal upsize thread (imperial or metric?) that could be used.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> thanks,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Mark Cramer<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Brandon</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceName w:st="on">University</st1:PlaceName></st1:place><o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> PS The alignment groove in the aftermarket parts I'm using doesn't quite line up with the wire Yamaha recesses into their action rails. This pulls the flange away from the lip that the flanges butt against, making it difficult to get a nice alignment.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Fortunately, there's a recess in that lip, and I was ABEL to thread a peice of #16 music wire between and the flange. Now I'm left with about a .25mm gap between the lip and the flange, but at least it's precise.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>      <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Barbara Richmond Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:34 AM To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">College and University Technicians</st1:PersonName> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> <div> Hi Jim,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> I bought the Recoil kit, but it has no screws in it.  What screws did you use?  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> John Dewey also mentioned this repair in his class, Action Frame Diagnosis and Repair, so, if it is OK with you, I will also list him on the submission since I am putting together a special "TT&T goes to the convention."<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Thanks,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Barbara<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-color:black'> From: <a href="mailto:jim_busby@byu.edu" title="jim_busby@byu.edu">Jim Busby</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> To: <a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" title="caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 3:58 PM<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Subject: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> List,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Here’s a way to repair stripped screw holes (Especially if an oversized screw strips) in an aluminum rail that takes less than a minute or two. “Helicoils” is what they are called. (See attached pic.) <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> You drill out the hole and tap it, then insert the little coil which disappears into the tapped threads, and then you’re good to go! Maybe this has been shown on CAUT before, I don’t remember seeing it. The new screw is actually a machine screw with fine threads so it takes a few more rotations, but this is way better than anything else I’ve ever tried. The package shows a bolt, but what actually goes in has a Phillips head and looks like a normal screw.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Jim Busby RPT<o:p></o:p> BYU<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </blockquote> </blockquote> </div> </body> </html>