<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:o = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16481" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE>@page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose } DIV.Section1 { page: Section1 } </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US vLink=purple link=blue bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>Mark,</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>A couple of other repairs that work well if the hole isn't too far gone . . .</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>1. Oversized screws are available from Yamaha - or at least, they used to have them.  I haven't checked recently :-)</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>2. Swedging the hole works very well in many cases.  I use a fine screwdriver with a sharp tip, position it at the edge of the hole and tap with a small hammer until you have a mark in the aluminum.  Repeat in a star pattern around the hole on all sides, so that you end up with 8 little lines radiating out from the hole.  The original screw should tighten normally now.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>In extreme cases I have turned the rail over and repeated the swedging on the bottom as well.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>Really, the hole would need to be really, really badly damaged to require a threaded insert, but I can see that happening.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=010134217-27062007><FONT color=#000080>Don Mannino</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left> <HR tabIndex=-1> <FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Mark Cramer<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 AM<BR><B>To:</B> College and University Technicians<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<BR></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>How timely Barbara and Jim, I'm just traveling a new set of S/F's on a 1976 C-7 and found a stripped hole in the bass.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>Can you suggest a place to look for this kit... auto supplies, etc? Does it have a parts number, or go by the thread size?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>Otherwise, I seem to recall someone suggesting there was a nominal upsize thread (imperial or metric?) that could be used.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>thanks,</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>Mark Cramer</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brandon University</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>PS The alignment groove in the aftermarket parts I'm using doesn't quite line up with the wire Yamaha recesses into their action rails. This pulls the flange away from the lip that the flanges butt against, making it difficult to get a nice alignment.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fortunately, there's a recess in that lip, and I was ABEL to thread a peice of #16 music wire between and the flange. Now I'm left with about a .25mm gap between the lip and the flange, but at least it's precise.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007><FONT face=Arial size=2>   </FONT>  </SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=900411416-27062007></SPAN> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Barbara Richmond<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:34 AM<BR><B>To:</B> College and University Technicians<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair<BR><BR></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Jim,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I bought the Recoil kit, but it has no screws in it.  What screws did you use?  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John Dewey also mentioned this repair in his class, Action Frame Diagnosis and Repair, so, if it is OK with you, I will also list him on the submission since I am putting together a special "TT&T goes to the convention."</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Barbara</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=jim_busby@byu.edu href="mailto:jim_busby@byu.edu">Jim Busby</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, January 25, 2007 3:58 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV class=Section1> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">List,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Here’s a way to repair stripped screw holes (Especially if an oversized screw strips) in an aluminum rail that takes less than a minute or two. “Helicoils” is what they are called. (See attached pic.) <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">You drill out the hole and tap it, then insert the little coil which disappears into the tapped threads, and then you’re good to go! Maybe this has been shown on CAUT before, I don’t remember seeing it. The new screw is actually a machine screw with fine threads so it takes a few more rotations, but this is way better than anything else I’ve ever tried. The package shows a bolt, but what actually goes in has a Phillips head and looks like a normal screw.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Jim Busby RPT<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">BYU<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>