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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I can see that this method would be better and more
stable than squishing wood. Is there anyone with experience with it from
the Far North, Midwest or Northeast where we go through <huge> seasonal
swings in humidity levels?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Barbara Richmond</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>on the way out the door to pick up a S&S B
action w/key bottom trouble</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keithspiano@gmail.com href="mailto:keithspiano@gmail.com">Keith
Roberts</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 26, 2007 10:14
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] Key bottoms (was Re:
key-easing pliers?)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>When I replaced the balance rail holes ala Spurlock, I drilled them
slightly smaller the first pass and they were tight, really close. I took a
1/8" chainsaw file that mics at .130 to .135 on the cutting surface and
it was tight so I inserted the file in the hole and rotated 1 turn
counterclockwise and removed. (I had to make a handle). They were perfect on
the new pins. </DIV>
<DIV>Lucky me.</DIV>
<DIV>So I ground off the back and sides of one of those files till I could
taper the hole until the key rocked nicely and leave the bottom
untouched.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>And when I checked them 2 years later they are still perfect. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Keith Roberts<BR><BR> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=gmail_quote>On 7/26/07, <B class=gmail_sendername>Fred
Sturm</B> <<A href="mailto:fssturm@unm.edu">fssturm@unm.edu</A>>
wrote:</SPAN>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">
<DIV style="WORD-WRAP: break-word">
<DIV><SPAN class=q>
<DIV>On Jul 26, 2007, at 11:46 AM, Jim Busby wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Fred,</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">One
difference/question I have is - isn't it easier to insert the proper
sizing cauls, then turn the set upside down and insert the BR pins (the
cauls won't let the pins fall through), then add sizing fluid? After they
dry, ream the mortise so the "foot" of the hole is the exact thickness.
<BR></SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>Takes a long
time to insert those balance pins in each hole, and then pull them out later
(I don't have a bunch of student helpers, so a few seconds here and there on
each little procedure add up). I'm "reaming" with a drill bit, which doesn't
remove as much wood as a real reamer, and maybe leaves a bit of "uncut
splinters" (we're talking fairly microscopic) to hold glue if I need to size
later. That's my reasoning, anyway. And I think it leaves a more stable
condition than just putting in BR pins and letting the wood conform to them,
if your holes are too small to begin with. I'm closer to having the right
amount of wood (in this dimension, not to be confused with the reaming you
are talking about above). Making the hole exactly the size of the pin will
require a bit of easing. So I use one sizing caul, which is heated. The heat
increases the size of the balance pin in the caul from .146" to .147", and
the heat helps size the wood - make the size relatively permanent. It
puts the hole .001" larger than the pin, very nicely and consistently.
(Glue-sizing to make the hole smaller where needed is a separate part of the
procedure, done only to holes that are too large). <SPAN class=q><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Replace
them on the Keyframe to check BR fit and fix pulley keys.
<BR></SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>That's a lot
of time and work. I like to leave the keys in the clamp, and bring the
balance pin to the key. I can feel that pin going into the hole very
precisely, and also feel if there is any play in any direction.. <SPAN
class=q><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Many
times pulley keys are no longer an issue with the glue sizing formula. BTW
I use a much diluted (12/1 or so) Elmer's glue for sizing. Ron N. tells me
that this is the only place on a piano where he uses that glue. (Thanks
Ron) There is no sound, click, etc. with Elmer's glue as there is with
PVCE, Hot Hide, and or other glues. </SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"></SPAN></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Baldassin
taught me to add this extra step (it really doesn't take long) of placing
the keys back on the frame BEFORE the bushings are in so that you can work
the BR holes w/o "false readings" from overly tight new bushings. It takes
about 10 – 15 minutes longer but the total focus on the BR hole pays big
dividends, IMO. Here is when I deal with the pulley keys because now
you're sure of which ones weren't fixed by the glue sizing.
</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>Rick B is
certainly correct in wanting to separate bottom hole from bushings, so one
doesn't mask the other. I think I do it with a lot less time and effort.
Putting a loose pin into the hole removes the factor of the weight of the
key. All that lead can mask a lot of problems. <SPAN class=q>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Anyway,
just a bit more to consider for your book... Who knows? Marriott's
success, he said, was to "write out every tiny process and revise it in
writing until nothing more could be perfected, then get all your employees
to do it THAT way."
</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>I don't like
having employees other than myself. That's one reason I am in this business
<G>. <SPAN class=q>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">(I vote
for you to write that book, sometime before your beard is entirely gray??
You and Ron. Oh well, Ron…))
</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>I don't think
there's much chance of me compiling and writing in book form. But if anyone
else wants to do that, and make use of what I have posted from time to time,
that would be fine with me. Have at it with my compliments.
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><SPAN
style="WORD-SPACING: 0px; FONT: 12px Helvetica; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); TEXT-INDENT: 0px; WHITE-SPACE: normal; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px">
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">High
regards,</SPAN></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 13px; COLOR: rgb(0,0,128); FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Jim</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></SPAN></BLOCKQUOTE>Regards,<BR> </DIV><SPAN
class=sg>
<DIV>Fred</DIV></SPAN></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>