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changes</title></head><body>
<div>At 20:07 -0400 9/9/07, Ted Sambell wrote:</div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite>...John, I would be interested in knowing
if you have adopted the long wire centrepinning rechniques which seem
to have taken over in Europe. Jurgen Goring demonstrated this in
Calgary last year. He is very skilful at it. I understand the
Rappaports have given classes on this too. It is certainly
quicker than the separate small pins.</blockquote>
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<div>I mentioned using the wire when doing the hammers of the old
Kirkman upright. For one thing my supplier charges an outrageous
price for the very thin pins (eg. 1.20 mm) and less for the wire, and
also the wire is advertised to be "Neusilber", ie. German
silver = nickel silver, throughout rather than being plated brass, and
this seems definitely preferable. Whether it is in fact
homogeneous German silver I have not yet investigated but it looks
possible.</div>
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<div>I had a small grinder running on the bench to put a point on the
wire as each centre was done and worked just as I would with
individual pins. I charge for recentring 1 minute per centre,
though this is an over-estimate for a straightforward job on an
untouched piano. If the "tuner/repairer" has been at
it before, then it can be a gross under-estimate.</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite>For removing the old pins, I have made a
support block which goes on the drill press. Once set up it is clamped
into place. It accomodates a variety of parts and flanges and provides
solid support for the attached parts. This is for repetition work , of
course.</blockquote>
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I now always take out the pins with the German tongs:</div>
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<div align="center"><img
src="cid:p0624080bc30b61c66f0e@[10.0.0.6].1.0"></div>
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<div>I used to use a special small bench press:</div>
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<div align="center"><img
src="cid:p0624080bc30b61c66f0e@[10.0.0.6].1.1"></div>
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<div>but I have long preferred the tongs since I can hold them where I
want, and probably because my eyes are not as good as they were.</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite> Mounting a piece of rod in
the chuck permits rapid pinning up too.</blockquote>
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<div>I always push the pin in with the nippers (mine are larger than
those sold by the suppliers -- 7"). If this is not possible
without forcing and without the pin creaking, then for sure the pin is
too thick for the hole. I would never press or hammer the pin
in. Factory work is different from restoration work. When
one is working with new parts of known dimensions and characteristics
one can adopt different techniques, but every job in restoration is
different. I now sometimes come across a piano or am called out
to see one I re-centred 25 years ago and am happy to say the methods I
learned so painfully in the beginning stand the test of time.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>JD</div>
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