<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16525" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For Paul W,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jon Page and Vince M are quite right this is not simple territory. Pre 84 as Fred S has said is probably more the issue of knuckle placement, moving 16 to 17 can result in 15 grams DW reduction. I'm sure Fred is right about the Renner parts period although it may have been shorter, it was while they were retooling in NY. Capstan movement achieves not so much. But for fun Paul why don't you make yourself a boat and float it. Take a piece of 1/4" hobby laminate as a base about the width of a key and less than the length of a wippen heal and drill a hole for the capstan threads. cut a capstan (from your stash) down so that it will screw up and down about the distance of the ones in your action. Screw it in then remove a capstan from the action, weigh it, and trim the base of the boat or add weight with lead solder to it with CA glue so that the boat and the capstan weigh the same. I like to trim mine into the shape of a boat and decorate with portals, etc. Then slide (float) the boat forward and backward and check your up and downweights. This is at the very least a good learning tool.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Have fun.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chris Solliday</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>