<HTML> <HEAD> <TITLE>Re: [CAUT] Weber grand block</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY> Hey, Nancy, I think you’ve got a good plan.  I wouldn’t want to try to modify the case; there be dragons in that land.  I guess my first choice would be to add on shelf pieces and make a complete new block, if there is room for that at both ends.  If not, then you have identified the only other reasonable option. My only advice would be to make sure you are completely confident of the structural integrity of the solid base piece.  I have plugged a few blocks in the past and have usually not been completely happy with the outcome.  On a couple of occasions I have had a plugged block fail almost immediately because the old block wasn’t strong enough to hold the plugs, pins, string tension.  Fortunately I was just working for wages at the time and the redo came out of the other guy’s pocket!  Having a new laminated section, though, should help a lot. Here’s an idea: this might be an opportunity to imitate, and gain some of the benefits of, Ron Nossaman’s “hybrid” block.  Use Delignit for the cap; its greater strength may take some stress of the old solid piece.  Cut your plugs from some multi-lam stock, though, for smoother tuning.  Cutting plugs from multi-lam is also a lot easier than from any other material, I think.  Any thoughts on this, Ron? Regards, Ken Z. On 10/4/07 6:01 PM, "nmsalmon@gmail.com" <nmsalmon@gmail.com> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE> Hello all;      I'm looking to pick your brains about this unusual Weber grand block I just uncovered.      The solid wood "base" or lower level is mitred into the case. There is no shelf to accomodate the block. The base does have 1/8" veneer both top and bottom which looks to be maple.     The laminated top inch was glued to the base with hide glue and snapped off, bringing that top layer of veneer with it.     The plated rests on the base, so only the laminated bit is fitted to the flange.     Nothing is doweled or attached in any way to the bellyman rail.     My inclination is to plug the solid base with whatever pinblock material I use for the laminate and make a new laminate piece. I will of course have to replace that 1/8" veneer so the plate is at the proper height.     I have cut out mitred blocks before, and I've done 4 piece, bi-level, beveled, blind bolted Chickering blocks; but never the combination. I would! prefer not to cut the case to accept a new block. There is however room to build a shelf at the bass end.     Your thoughts and wisdom please....     I have enclosed photos.                       Nancy Salmon RPT                       Frostburg State University                                     Frostburg MD - Nancy   </BLOCKQUOTE> -- Ken Zahringer, RPT Piano Technician MU School of Music 297 Fine Arts 882-1202 cell 489-7529 </BODY> </HTML>