<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="Street"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="address"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PlaceType"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PlaceName"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=blue> <div class=Section1> I was just faced with this alignment issue on an S&S B. I was replacing the hammers, shanks, and repetitions. The existing alignment/spacing was very erratic as was the string spacing at the capo bar. I inherited this piano on the job with no hammers installed. So I really had no benchmark and had to start from the get go. Now I have an action that is as aligned as well as I would ever want with parallel and evenly spaced flanges. I don’t think it took an inordinate amount of time or redundancy of work. Here is what I did:<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <ol style='margin-top:0in' start=1 type=1> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Install the new reps making sure they were centered on the flange screw and papering them so that the fly was centered on the letoff button.<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Install the flanges, again making sure the screws were exactly in the middle.<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Make minor adjustments to hammer and/or repetition flanges to center shank on rebound cushion<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>travel shanks and install hammers<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Insert action into the cavity and check to strings. (Most hammers needed a very slight shift to the right so I loosened the screws on the stop block and put a couple of 14F punchings behind it. Then I made a few minor adjustments to the hammers to align them as I wished with the strings in the agraffe sections. They were still good in relationship with the reps.)<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Straighten the strings in the capo sections using a string and eyeball. Make unison width the same as in the agraffe sections. Make sure damper guide holes align with spaces between unisons.<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Make minor adjustment to the hammers in the capo sections to align with strings.<o:p></o:p></li> <li class=MsoNormal style='color:navy;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'>Finally, look at action from the back and make minor adjustments to reps to align the end of the balancier with the hammer flanges. Make sure there is clearance between adjacent reps.<o:p></o:p></li> </ol> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Ted Kidwell</st1:PersonName>, RPT<o:p></o:p> <st1:PlaceName w:st="on">California</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">State</st1:PlaceType> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">University</st1:PlaceType>, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Sacramento</st1:place></st1:City><o:p></o:p> Capistrano Hall, rm. 153<o:p></o:p> <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">6000 J Street</st1:address></st1:Street><o:p></o:p> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Sacramento</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">CA</st1:State> <st1:PostalCode w:st="on">95819-6015</st1:PostalCode></st1:place><o:p></o:p> 916.278.6737<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Willem Blees Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:25 PM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] action stack protocol<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> Paul After removing everything, put on the lef off buttons first. It will be easier without the wips in the way. Attach the wippens next and space them. Next put on the shanks, and more or less space and travel them to get them close. But I wait until I get the hammers to space and travel the shanks. I then space the hammer in the piano to match the strings. The final step is spacing and/or traveling the wips under the knuckles.  <o:p></o:p> <div> Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT Piano Tuner/Technician <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Honolulu</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">HI</st1:State></st1:place> 808-349-2943 www.bleespiano.com Author of The Business of Piano Tuning available from Potter Press www.pianotuning.com<o:p></o:p> </div> -----Original Message----- From: Paul T Williams <pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu> To: caut@ptg.org Sent: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 6:24 am Subject: [CAUT] action stack protocol<o:p></o:p> <div id="AOLMsgPart_2_d2abf25c-1191-4f52-b551-0f47f13ffeef"> Hi all, Y'all might remember my mentioning the rebuilding of an entire action stack on a Baldwin D (1956) with Renner action parts, Ronsen Wurzen hammers and those crazy conical front rail punchings! I've partially rebuilt many actions...ie new hammers, shanks, flanges on some, new wippens on some, just some new let-off buttons and hammers on existing shanks, etc, but I've never gone down to bare frame and start from scratch. Question:  is there a proper protocol on which to install first, second, etc?  My thinking is to install new let-off buttons first (in existing holes), then wips along with travelling, then shanks/travelling.  Any problems with this order?  Also, would it be more prudent to use the existing let-off button wires and leave them in the rail.  The new ones came with the wires on, so I would have to unscrew them all possibly taking wood with it on removal. Removing the old wires from the rail might damage the holes in the rail, eh? What say you, oh wise ones? Paul <o:p></o:p> </div>  <div id=u8CA9F90313DA8E4-14E0-18AB> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='margin-top:7.5pt;text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> <a href="http://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=aolcmp00050000000011" target="_blank" title="http://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=aolcmp00050000000011">Get the Moviefone Toolbar</a>. Showtimes, theaters, movie news, & more! <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>