You're correct Ed, I'm sold on switching to to the Molding glue.  The regular Titebond is too runny and I spend too much time catching drips and even after I do, I get the occasional hardened drip down into the coving.  That's a pain to clean up!  I know a lot of the traditionalists like hot hide, but I've never really used it.  I did see, in the hardware store, Titebond liquid hide glue the other day.   Has anyone tried that? Thanks again to everyone for the good info on molding glue.  On to the next set of hammers! Paul <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td width=40%>"Ed  Sutton" <ed440@mindspring.com> Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org 07/03/2008 08:08 AM <table border> <tr valign=top> <td bgcolor=white> <div align=center>Please respond to Ed  Sutton <ed440@mindspring.com>; Please respond to College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org></div></table> <td width=59%> <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>To</div> <td>"College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>cc</div> <td> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>Subject</div> <td>Re: [CAUT] a simple question</table> <table> <tr valign=top> <td> <td></table> </table> Some clarification here:   Titebond Original Wood Glue is a yellow glue. It will need thickening for hammer hanging.   Titebond Molding and Trim Wood Glue is a white glue. It is already thick to a "no-run, no-drip" consistancy. I don't think it requires, or should be thickened before hanging hammers. Its initial set is fast. Unless the hammers are bored very loose to the shanks, you can move the Spurlock jig to the next section in just a few minutes. You can tell when the glue has set by testing a hammer.   Both glues can do a good job for hanging hammers. Most folks who try the Molding and Trim Glue like it because it doesn't run or drip very much, and makes a neat job easier to attain.   Ed Sutton