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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Paul-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Liquid hide glue is very runny and very slow
setting. Not appropriate for hammer hanging.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Recommended: _The Glue Book_ by William Tandy
Young. Used copies can be found for about $20.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ed</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu
href="mailto:pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu">Paul T Williams</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=ed440@mindspring.com
href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com">Ed Sutton</A> ; <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 03, 2008 9:30
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] a simple
question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>You're correct Ed,</FONT>
<BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>I'm sold on switching to to the Molding
glue. The regular Titebond is too runny and I spend too much time
catching drips and even after I do, I get the occasional hardened drip down
into the coving. That's a pain to clean up! I know a lot of the
traditionalists like hot hide, but I've never really used it. I did see,
in the hardware store, Titebond liquid hide glue the other day. </FONT>
<BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Has anyone tried that?</FONT>
<BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Thanks again to everyone for the good
info on molding glue. On to the next set of hammers!</FONT>
<BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Paul</FONT> <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
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<TD width="40%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>"Ed Sutton"
<ed440@mindspring.com></B> </FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org</FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>07/03/2008 08:08 AM</FONT>
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<DIV align=center><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Please respond
to<BR>Ed Sutton <ed440@mindspring.com>; Please respond
to<BR>College and University Technicians
<caut@ptg.org></FONT></DIV></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></P>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>To</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>"College and University
Technicians" <caut@ptg.org></FONT>
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<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>cc</FONT></DIV>
<TD>
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<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Subject</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Re: [CAUT] a simple
question</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR>
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<TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Some clarification here:</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3> </FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Titebond Original Wood Glue is a yellow glue. It
will need thickening for hammer hanging.</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3> </FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Titebond Molding and Trim Wood Glue is a white
glue. It is already thick to a "no-run, no-drip" consistancy. I don't think it
requires, or should be thickened before hanging hammers. Its initial set is
fast. Unless the hammers are bored very loose to the shanks, you can move the
Spurlock jig to the next section in just a few minutes. You can tell when the
glue has set by testing a hammer.</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3> </FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Both glues can do a good job for hanging hammers.
Most folks who try the Molding and Trim Glue like it because it doesn't run or
drip very much, and makes a neat job easier to attain.</FONT> <BR><FONT
size=3> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ed Sutton</FONT>
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