<div>Really??? When I went to work in Dale Erwin's shop 6 years ago, liquid hide is what he hung hammers with and had been doing it for years. It does thicken when you let it sit out. </div> <div> </div> <div>I guess you develop techiniques that are appropriate for the materials you use. Hanging a set took 2 to 3 hours, total. Just like Ron O says, the tails are just as straight as the tips.</div> <div> </div> <div>There is a seminar at Dale's shop on August 2nd. He will be giving Grand tours. Email promotion will come out this next week. If you are in the area, do stop by as this is for education and the quest for knowledge. </div> <div> </div> <div>Keith Roberts </div> <div>Secretary, Chapter #953 <br><br></div> <div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 7:01 AM, Ed Sutton <<a href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com">ed440@mindspring.com</a>> wrote:<br> <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid"> <div bgcolor="#ffffff"> <div><font face="Arial" size="2">Paul-</font></div> <div><font face="Arial" size="2"></font> </div> <div><font face="Arial" size="2">Liquid hide glue is very runny and very slow setting. Not appropriate for hammer hanging.</font></div> <div><font face="Arial" size="2"></font> </div> <div><font face="Arial" size="2">Recommended: _The Glue Book_ by William Tandy Young. Used copies can be found for about $20.</font></div> <div><font face="Arial" size="2"></font> </div><font color="#888888"> <div><font face="Arial" size="2">Ed</font></div></font> <div> <div></div> <div class="Wj3C7c"> <blockquote style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div> <div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial"><b>From:</b> <a title="pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu" href="mailto:pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu" target="_blank">Paul T Williams</a> </div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>To:</b> <a title="ed440@mindspring.com" href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com" target="_blank">Ed Sutton</a> ; <a title="caut@ptg.org" href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" target="_blank">College and University Technicians</a> </div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, July 03, 2008 9:30 AM</div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Subject:</b> Re: [CAUT] a simple question</div> <div><br></div><br><font face="sans-serif" size="2">You're correct Ed,</font> <br><br><font face="sans-serif" size="2">I'm sold on switching to to the Molding glue.  The regular Titebond is too runny and I spend too much time catching drips and even after I do, I get the occasional hardened drip down into the coving.  That's a pain to clean up!  I know a lot of the traditionalists like hot hide, but I've never really used it.  I did see, in the hardware store, Titebond liquid hide glue the other day.  </font> <br> <br><font face="sans-serif" size="2">Has anyone tried that?</font> <br><br><font face="sans-serif" size="2">Thanks again to everyone for the good info on molding glue.  On to the next set of hammers!</font> <br><br><font face="sans-serif" size="2">Paul</font> <br> <br><br><br><br><br> <table width="100%"> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td width="40%"><font face="sans-serif" size="1"><b>"Ed  Sutton" <<a href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com" target="_blank">ed440@mindspring.com</a>></b> </font><br><font face="sans-serif" size="1">Sent by: <a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org" target="_blank">caut-bounces@ptg.org</a></font> <p><font face="sans-serif" size="1">07/03/2008 08:08 AM</font> <table border="1"> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td bgcolor="white"> <div align="center"><font face="sans-serif" size="1">Please respond to<br>Ed  Sutton <<a href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com" target="_blank">ed440@mindspring.com</a>>; Please respond to<br>College and University Technicians <<a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" target="_blank">caut@ptg.org</a>></font></div> </td></tr></tbody></table><br></p> <td width="59%"> <table width="100%"> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td> <div align="right"><font face="sans-serif" size="1">To</font></div> <td><font face="sans-serif" size="1">"College and University Technicians" <<a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" target="_blank">caut@ptg.org</a>></font> <tr valign="top"> <td> <div align="right"><font face="sans-serif" size="1">cc</font></div> <td> <tr valign="top"> <td> <div align="right"><font face="sans-serif" size="1">Subject</font></div> <td><font face="sans-serif" size="1">Re: [CAUT] a simple question</font></td></td></tr></td></td></tr></td></td></tr></tbody></table><br> <table> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td> <td></td></td></tr></tbody></table><br></td></td></tr></tbody></table><br><br><br><font face="Arial" size="2">Some clarification here:</font> <br><font size="3"> </font> <br><font face="Arial" size="2">Titebond Original Wood Glue is a yellow glue. It will need thickening for hammer hanging.</font> <br> <font size="3"> </font> <br><font face="Arial" size="2">Titebond Molding and Trim Wood Glue is a white glue. It is already thick to a "no-run, no-drip" consistancy. I don't think it requires, or should be thickened before hanging hammers. Its initial set is fast. Unless the hammers are bored very loose to the shanks, you can move the Spurlock jig to the next section in just a few minutes. You can tell when the glue has set by testing a hammer.</font> <br> <font size="3"> </font> <br><font face="Arial" size="2">Both glues can do a good job for hanging hammers. Most folks who try the Molding and Trim Glue like it because it doesn't run or drip very much, and makes a neat job easier to attain.</font> <br> <font size="3"> </font> <br><font face="Arial" size="2">Ed Sutton</font> <br></blockquote></div></div></div></blockquote></div><br>