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<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Paul~</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>I never had much
luck with liquid hide glue. I have used both liquid hide glue and hot hide
glue and they are quite different animals, not even close.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>As some others here
have already stated, liquid hide glue is pretty runny and takes forever to set
up. They have to put "something" in it at the factory to keep it from hardening
in the bottle, or at the same room temperature that hot hide glue normally gels
and hardens. That "something" seems to be the problem. Liquid hide
glue seems to be better for applications where you don't need a lot of
holding strength and can take your sweet time while it
hardens. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>But you know, a lot
of the other glues you can buy are also runny. I think that whatever hammer glue
a technician uses, it can be very helpful to let it thicken by leaving the lid
off until it is the proper consistency - thin enough to still soak into the
wood, but thick enough so those little glue collars you make as you spin
the hammer on the shank will tend to stay in place rather than dripping
off.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have used both
Bolduc glue and Tightbond for hammer hanging, as well as hot hide glue. Hot hide
glue is the traditionalist's favorite, but in my old age (50's now) I just want
something convenient, and quick, that works well, without all the mess and fuss
of hot hide. One of the rationales given for using hot hide glue is that it
is easier to disassemble parts if needed or if rebuilding. I have never had any
problem disassembling parts with these other glues.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>(I'm pretty sure
Steinway hasn't used hot hide glue for hammers for many years now (unless
they have changed their policy recently). Bolduc glue works
great for hammers but is somewhat expensive. Tightbond works well but the water
component (or whatever it is) in the glue, in my experience, tends to
warp the shanks slightly as it dries so you have to do more shank heating and
correction. Perhaps if you let the glue thicken more this wouldn't be as
much of a problem. I haven't tried Titebond Trim and Molding, might be the
next thing I do. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>All the glues I have
used over the years have come a bit on the runny side for hammer
hanging. When I have let them thicken (but not too much!) they
have always worked much better.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>The problem is
essentially the same as with hot hide glue: How thick should it be for the job?
(-and also, being able to plan far enough in advance so it's
ready when you need it.) </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Sincerely,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733031822-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>Kendall Ross
Bean</FONT> </SPAN></DIV>
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